Club 80-90 Forums

lughole wrote:seemed to cope in Wales ok (ish) on the first day we went thru deep water twice and seemed to cope ok,( i think your group went through that bit on sunday)
once the alternator is raised, all shall be good ( it is a worry at the mo). there is no engine bash plate at the mo, im going to make something but the sump sits lower than bar i carry a spare sump with me .

Yours (sitting right out there ),



My Westy (Russels in the video),



Just a heads up for when you have to build a new one because of the engine sitting lower than the bar etc... That bit of rocky quite standard bit of lane in the Wales video hit our engine bash plates (bits of orange paint on the rocks then posably dragged back on the exhaust). You would have lost your pulley (maybe worse) and cracked your sump for sure if you did the same in your van Lughole.. Of course with the added bash plate length you will reduce your approach angle quite abit but your going to be worried sick the whole time otherwise.

Thanks for popping up the links to the pictures very interesting..

jed

my confusion came from jed asking about 'engine bash plate' the engine bars are still there, i thought there might be a plate around too, to sit underneath the sump - as the lowest point of contact is the sump nut ( although the sump is made of chunky clunky steal. ) so its only diesels that have an engine bash plate?

Lughole wrote:my confusion came from jed asking about 'engine bash plate' the engine bars are still there, i thought there might be a plate around too, to sit underneath the sump - as the lowest point of contact is the sump nut ( although the sump is made of chunky clunky steal. ) so its only diesels that have an engine bash plate?

I use the term "plate" loosely as the engine protection on a petrol is kind of lame because it has to let all the exhaust pipes of the petrol engine do there thing. Saying that it was well positioned to take that whack by those rocks and it has saved the engine more than once but my doka doesnt have half its engine hanging out the back all exposed..


jed

so my engine is hanging out the back 'all exposed' ?
oh no.
id better call neil tell him to stop...

lughole wrote:so my engine is hanging out the back 'all exposed' ?
oh no. .

Petrol,



Diesel,



Subaru,




Volvo,



Well it is really isnt it... Just trying to show you some options now you know the difference at least.

jed

so today, got a couple of little jobs done wilt everything is out, above the tank is de rusted (of what little rust there was) and under sealed, so with a little bit of luck that will be that.

the gear box selector linkage bellows were shot, bought them a while ago just never got around to fitting them. spot the new one?


got the adapter plate mounted to the engine



mated everything up, it did not quite fit and the ring rear began to bing on to the gear box, it suddernly the job was becoming a chore rather then a pleasure, not the way that i wanted this project to go.



after a bit of head scratching (and pulling) and a bit of back reading through the manual, i am hoping. that the volvo engine was from an auto car, there should be a bearing for the input shaft to locate in to there was not one, just this solid shaft, which leads me to the auto train of thought, i will have to go to volvo ing the morning and try an order the right bearing.
was a bit of a bugger to get out but the slide hammer made life easyer.



neil

jed the spread wrote:Petrol,

I recognize that DG for some reason

jed the spread wrote:Subaru,

Nice one of a tidy 3.0 H6 installation. Note the loss of ground clearance and departure angle due to dropped petrol bars for standard H6 deep alloy sump. No exhaust fitted yet either...

So Neil, what's the problem with the flywheel from SMT? Is the ring gear too far forward or is the flywheel too near the block? Autos sometimes have a shim plate to set the offset on the drive plate. Cranks are usually all the same, just with a different spogot bearing as you have found.
If the flywheel needs machining let me know - In fact I'll phone you shortly.

if you look at this picture you can see how the departure angle is improved, the scooby install is the most complex one too deal with the ground clearence as the sump sits through it and on the 6pot they have lowered the protection buy what looks like 2inchs, and like ian said no exhaust and that will be a lot of work to make and keep tucked up put of harms way, to sort out the sump on a ej engine from what i have read the only (proper) option is to spend lot money buying one from the us of a have a look at the install that spanerboy did for rollercoster (i think that is his username), and you will see the problem with a standard sump,

look at the location of the engine mounting bar in relation to every thing else, it is all tucked up in to the engine bay,



neil

Can't argue with that. Standard petrol engine bar and rails and the sump's well above it, out of harm's way.
The crank pulley is no worse off than a wbx, but some extended protection for it wouldn't be a bad thing?

silverbullet wrote: The crank pulley is no worse off than a wbx,

And the wbx pulley sits protected above the engine bar... Think about leverage the pulley in the Volvo picture sits at least 10" past any guard and it is exposed as are parts of the engine.

Did this for you because the valance has a ding on both my vans and my last exhaust on the Westy was full of knocks and it broke the wield, think Jakes has just done the same

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ywga883aTAM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jed

whats that? the first word after the last discoshion, is the start of the next? with this install there will be no more dents on the exhaust (silencer) from ground contact, and buy the time that the pulley makes contact with any thing the rear vanence and the toe bar would have taken a clout. think the pictures have done the talking ing this one?

back to work, hit a bit of a stand still but there is lots to get on with, first went to volvo and ordered the spigot bearing and clip to hold it in the crank £9.50+vat. so with a little bit of luck it should all be bolted togeather soon. i was cleaning the tank and the vent lines were looking rather scabby, they are made of some sort of cotton coated rubber hose, started feeling around then and one of them started cracking, off with them, then one of spigots on the non return vales broke, (bugger). so after a quick call to aidan and then TPS they will be rocking up along with the fuel filler to tank seal. so routed the new lines in preperation. better to do it now that later.



also started preping the cooling system, mounted the new coolant tank,i am scrapping the normal t3 header and catch tanks and replacing it with a more modern mk4 golf (and many other vag cars) i soldered the the t3 loom to the new fitting on the tank, then used heat shrink on then, to keep them nice and neat, so i still have the flashing led if the water drops too low as well if the temp rises too much.




also been ding a few more things with the wiring, i removed the entire ecu loom, but there are t wires (conectors) left that i do not know what to do with them as they are part of the front to back loom. one of them are ing on live i think that it went to the ing stabaliser, but i was unable to trace the second one, has any one got any idea what it was used for?



neil

axeman wrote:whats that? the first word after the last discoshion, is the start of the next?

doesn't one of those plugs go to the dizzy ?

diff lock ? the smaller one

T'Onion wrote:doesn't one of those plugs go to the dizzy ?

thats what i thought, on the front of the dizzy to the ignition amplifier ?