Club 80-90 Forums

I had a similar intermittant running problem to yours, mine turned out to be a faulty lambda probe. What have you done with yours? after fitting the JK exhaust......are they still plumbed in? or?

Also: do you have a standard VW petrol filler cap? vented type? or an after market job? which may be causing a vacuum.


Martin

Got rid of the Lamda probe when exhaust changed - ran for 2 years with no problems - likewise the filler cap is VW original and unchanged - thanks

getting rid of the lambda probe, might, be sending wrong info to the ecu? ie after approx 10 mins it would come out of 'choke' mode and not be receiving the output from the lambda????

Defo change the filter!

jamesc76 wrote:getting rid of the lambda probe, might, be sending wrong info to the ecu?

Definitely - can't just get shot of the lambda. The ECU will be expecting to see _something_ from it, and - as with RedWestie's duff lambda - if it sees nothing or something that it can't understand, then It'll go into a "fail safe" mode, but that's going to be a long way from optimal.

Get shot of the cat, sure. But keep the lambda.

Thanks for advice - hear what you are saying re lamda probe but had driven it for 3 yrs with JK exhaeust, no cat or probe without problem - was only after the fuel tank debacle that this problem started - to be honest it happened again on way home last night, turned off then on again and it went away, so yes will change the filter but otherwise if thats as bad as it gets will just have to live with it I suppose! Or - How do I go about putting a lamda probe back in??

I have a 1989 2.1i transporter - changed tank coz old one was leaking petrol - bought a 2nd hand one at a show - fitted fine - didnt do any long journeys after fitting just local runs, after bout 4-6 months it started cutting out - could be driving down road and realise there was no response at all - without warning mostly but occasionally some spluttering - put it in garage to have it checked over - got it back - first run it happened again - back to garage - they looked at absolutely everything but couldnt find anything wrong with it - wouldnt even cut out on a run for them - so just got it back, touchwood done 3 local runs and so far so good - but only started after changing tank??

Interested in this " choke " mode - if my power loss problem only occurs when engine cold ( first ten minutes of driving fault occurs ) could it be a false temperature signal to ECU, and if so is there a temp sensor I could change to try and sort problem? I don't think its the lambda probe as ran fine for 2 yrs and runs fine bar the first ten minutes where it flutters and loses power; once warm it never comes back.....
Thanks

Hi all, still got this problem when cold, went on German site and all seems to point to Idle stabilisation valve....currently soaking in carb cleaner overnight, will let you know how it goes!

Some Redex in the the tank might help.

first things first get the lambda bossed back into the exhaust, its there for a reason.

the ecu wont be able to sense and adjust as it should.

no wonder your vans thirsty.

its not like running an older van. it has modern electronics wich need data.

WELL ! - I cleaned out the Idle stabilisation Valve and when I put it back on van the throttle cycled up and down continuously which made driving in traffic awkward! So I figure thats a pretty good sign the valve is kaputt, luckily my friend Nigel Allen in Newquay had a spare and hallelulah it works!!! I have had this problem forever and I wish I could have diagnosed the Idle Valve earlier - it now seems so obvious, the van is not idling properly, oh there is a little gadget called an idle stabilisation valve - but trying to find out the info is more difficult - anyhoo thank you all very much for all your interest and help, it really is much appreciated, and I will post a further thread under the title " rough running when cold / Idle stabilisation valve " or something to help out anyone else with a similar problem