Club 80-90 Forums

As tinman says, I too could weld it and happy to charge you but dont go far away as I wouuld also be happy to do it again and again , If you join with a hose then that is an emergency get you running thing, also make sure any hose that is on a run is reinforced as when hot there is a tendancy for the suction lines to collapse when revving.
engine is worth more than your bits of plaggy pipe
mike

OK thanks guys I have bought some on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT

I have to arrange a courier which will deal with items this length? Any recommendations and rough prices?

I also now need to source the fixings any recommendations ? The guy that sold me them said he used large clips? I thought they needed sleeve and rubber reducers etc? Bit confused

With regards to my gammy old pipes are these welded onto the engine compartment bulkhead? Mine don't seem to budge at all.


Thanks

bmouthboyo wrote:
With regards to my gammy old pipes are these welded onto the engine compartment bulkhead?

Thanks

I don't think it matters ... just remove them

I ask because it I angle grind them out there will be a rectangular hole in the bulkhead where the old pipes were.

When I fit new ones they will have nothing to be supported by at that end?

The plastic pipes that are factory fitted have metal sleeves inserted into each end of the pipes.The ends of the metal sleeves are swaged to accept the engine coolent hoses.When you get the pipes they should have plastic swaged ends bonded to the metal sleeve inserts.The idea being you can use VW circlips that clasp around the flow&return coolent hose to the plastic pipes without crushing the inserts .Jubilee clips are the solution as are used in lots of cases but if overtightened may cause damage.Oh the pastic pipes that go into the engine bay have steel wire clips holding them into the bulk head.

You'll find they are rusted stuck not welded(unless a classis time served bodger)has been at them, I used stainless wire to retain minewith rubber sleeving around it.
mike

I replaced my pipes over christmas. Bought 2 later pipes of ebay for £30 and 4 rubber reducing link pipes (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0696724123) of ebay for £11. Used good bits from the old pipes to make joining pieces, bag full of jubillee clips and bobs ya uncle.

Richie

Do it once, do it right. Travel the world safe in the knowledge your next beer is at the destination of your choice rather than where the AA take you. Today's bodge is tomorrows problem

Well said that man^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
mike

I am doing so on my other thread:)

A little stuck though if you guys could help

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=81553

thanks

metalmick8y wrote:Well said that man^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
mike

Cheers Micky. Stainless is the only way to go even the plastic pipes rust away in the end due to the metal inserts

I've read this thread with interest, as my pipes developed a couple of serious leaks on the M5 southbound this afternoon (yesterday afternoon now lol) and the van promptly deposited all of her coolant on the tarmac. Luckily, I noticed the rapidly rising temperature gauge and got her to a stand on the hard shoulder before any serious damage was done to the engine. I'm running a 1Y set-up in my van, which is a 1981 model, originally a 1.6 n/a diesel.

I need to get the van back on the road as quickly as possible as Aidan is replacing the gearbox for me next week. For this reason, I like the look of the JK SS pipes, as they are split in half for ease of install. So my questions are: -

Has anyone installed the JK pipes - how easy was it and how long did it take??

How do you join the two halves together in the middle?

My van is currently sat in the works yard at Bristol - will i be able to do the job if i get the van up on axle stands?

Assuming the fittings at each end are good, will I need anything else other than the pipes?

Thanks in advance of any help anyone can offer.

Greg

Brickwerks stainless pipes are cheaper

If you look at the pipe image on JK you can see the short rubber hose that is used to connect the two pieces together.

Some say the tank need to come out, other say not. I think it depends on how wedged your pipes are under the tank. I'd say take the tank out and maybe replenish the fuel lines while you are there

Having just done this job I would say it is a tank out, especially if you currently have the heavier metal pipes.

Save yourself a lot of aggro and cut them, I angle grinded but some say you can hack saw them.

Fitting the larger plastic pipes was a real pain, but in the end I managed to without resorting to enlarging the hole on the chassis. I just had to arangnge them not next to each other.

i.e Top Row: Heater Hose / Water pipe.
Bottom Row: Water Pipe / Heater Hose





This was only arrangement they fit in without squashing the heater hoses.

I would say it is doable at work but it will be a lot easier dropping the tank. I also fitted them from the rear.

Thanks very much for the help and advice guys