Club 80-90 Forums

Just reviving this to add pic of final seat. As shown in earlier pics, it houses LPG tank in my case and is FIRMLY bolted with spreader plates through rear bulkhead. A ply front panel was added to tidy it up as well as a backrest strengthener which, when the seat is down, drops below bed level into the metal seat frame so everthing is perfectly level but strong when in seat mode. All three lap belts function perfectly although I may well add 3-point when I have more time and/or money. A small piece of trim was added to front edge of seat to help stop cushions moving/sliding. No plans to fit any rear cupboards as I'd only fill them, like the option to carry 8' x 4' sheets if I wanted to, and much prefer a full sized bed to be honest.



Trying to sort a front cab bed for my six year old was finally resolved by me and Chickenkoop using a £4.99 camp bed from Go Outdoors, cut slightly shorter and with the ends resting on the doors. He doesn't weigh enough to bend it and depending how carefully you cut, all of the original bed legs can still be used keeping it taught. The second pic shows how the legs rest on the doors. Note that because vehicle tapers to the front, pole nearest windscreen is slightly shorter:





And, last but not least, a very simple idea for storage on the dash using a strong plastic seed tray (pound shop of course) and some non-slip stuff in the bottom of it. Its been stuck on my dash with two-sided tape for two years and never moved and no unsightly screws in the dash. It is simple, but it works well.

How about a picture of the seat with no covers on??

I want the moon on a stick I know but what can you do?

Ok, will do:)

Hope this helps. Cushions removed. Heres the seat being lifted (refer back to previous pages for steel construction)



Heres a closeup of how the seat is locked in position so it can't come adrift and send rear passengers into unexpected 'auto-bed' mode.



In fact its a snug fit and the weight of seat base and passengers actually stops it lifting out although a simple bolt catch could be added - I just saw no reason to fit one as it works perfectly the way it is. When in seat position, theres about a 4" gap between base and back to be able to pull through lap belts quite easily. When its down, they disappear underneath Likewise if you're wanting to sit in the back for a meal, the belts are easily pushed through out the way. Seat base and back is only 11mm ply to keep weight down.

(Below) And with bed down - perfectly level. I have slept in it and its very comfy. I'm a big lad and it sleeps me and one other fine. Support for the leading edge is partly on a strip of wood along a cupboard (unseen in photo) over on the left although I may hinge fascia of seat to seat base to make a full-length support - not decided yet. Back of seat is strengthened with a piece of profiled steel fixed to rock n roll brackets which as I say, drops nicely into seat base when bed is down if you leave enough space at ends. Beats an MDF one by miles and now I'm perfectly happy for kids to sit on back although 3-point belts would be better still. Main thing is that seat is going absolutely nowhere now.

Lots of ways you can do a rear seat, mine being only one suggestion but I was looking for a level bed with good strength, excellent anchorage points, requiring no support pieces in centre of seat (ie clear underneath) and one that won't fall apart or get ripped out easily. Much of it came about during the build stage, spotting minor modifications to get it right. It also forms a strong cage around the tank and (arguably) strengthens the back of the vehicle in terms of a side impact (MDF would offer none at all) - just my take and each to their own on this. However, the construction is all here for anyone who wants to follow the idea, plus I think I put it in the WIKI a while ago (may need to update that). Materials were mostly donated/borrowed/found. I guess if I'd bought all the materials new it might just come to £80. Another bizarre Covkid project over and done with.



In the same week, Chickenkoop & Big Gordon (my neighbour) sorted out a tow bar for me this week too - out of odds and ends. Bumper was removed, a length of chunky 3mm box section welded between existing bumper irons (ie right behind bumper) and a shorter horizontal piece to weld tow hitch to. Works a treat and very strong!

Apologies for the crap round of coffee I made lads.

The tow ball and plate was donated by a family member. Welding carried out by a pro (Big Gordon) using industrial welding equipment rather than a lightweight affair to ensure strength - you don't take ANY chances with a tow bar. Electrics to follow - trailer socket and additional footlights in seat base.



Incidentally, I have a wholly 12v system which gives me more flexibility if theres no hookup on a site and even where there is, I have a portable 12v 17amp transformer which keeps up with anything I'm running. All lighting is low-consumption LED stuff and only ever buy 12v appliances.

Hello,

Been following your thread,

I agree about the risk of overbuilding metal chassis for seats, beds, and so on.

I have the same design of rnr bed, and prefer a big bed.

I like your dash tidy, better start saving my pennies,

I would like to know more about your 12 volt interior system, especially lighting, as I am going to refresh mine.

Cordialement,

I'm in the midst of redesigning my interior lighting but the LED patio lighting kits in DIY stores are a good place to start and glean ideas. They usually come with a 12v transformer which you can discard (or use for something else around the house). I have one with the lights fitted low down to light up floor area inside vehicle. Mostly I'm rerouting all this so it all runs off my leisure battery and has two-way switching so it'll come on if I open slider and also via an interior switch. These kits tend to be around the £30 mark for 8 lights. Otherwise you can buy LEDs with matching resistors (they blow without one) to light up all kinds of things.

The vast majority of the LED changes I've made were to exterior lights. In 'park/sidelight' position on light switch, every bulb is now LED so I can't get a flat battery - prompted by problems I had early on and the need to have bulbs I could fit and forget rather than have to replace every two years or so.

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Plenty there to drool over. There seems to be two camps on this one with some basing their ancilleries around 240v hookup but for me that seems to be chewing your nose to spite your face. If you're camped in the wild, you're a bit stuffed if most stuff onboard is 240v. There are 12v equivalents for almost anything now and it makes more sense (to me) to have a 12v system that can be powered off a 240v hookup or leisure battery.

Ages ago someone gave me a 240v to 12v power supply (whopping 17 amps!) which I think was designed for testing trailer sockets but I rewired it to give a bank of 12v ciggy sockets so if I am on hookup - I can use that to power anything really juicy. Otherwise ALDI and similar often have 12v ciggy sockets (with a 12v USB socket for satnavs or whatever) which you can use all over the vehicle.

Apologies for my long posts - I write for a living.