Club 80-90 Forums

Aidan wrote:mentioned these to Baxter this morning, he reckons machining probably cheapest option - Silverbullet over to you.............

I've just woken up! I'll need a good pattern...take it that the guides are both the same?

yes they are the same, just need to find a good un off a van, if Mick at NWVW ever answers his phone I'll ask him

Generally the guides (even worn ones) will have original faces at the base which will indicate the proper shape.

pictonroad wrote:

Looks like your gearlever is badly twisted , so you'll need to check the alignment of the mounting plate. That's why the rod fork has mullered the rear guide block I would guess...

Covkid - Always better to have a half-decent pattern to start off, given the choice...

If you can find one

silverbullet wrote:

pictonroad wrote:

Looks like your gearlever is badly twisted , so you'll need to check the alignment of the mounting plate. That's why the rod fork has mullered the rear guide block I would guess...

Covkid - Always better to have a half-decent pattern to start off, given the choice...

Yeh, Doug with a van in Angmering man took that photo and was able to show me that at some point in the past a ham "interfered with" Gentleman (Bavarian?) had snapped my lever and an equally muttoned pawed individual had re-welded it not quite right...

and the worn nylon tips to the stick wouldn't help - they are part of stick not available separately
some replacements for those would be a good thing and for the ones on the 4 speed linkage too as they wear and then can cause selection issues, especially on syncros driven by ham "interfered with" peeps

How curious that the filter interprets "HAM F15 TED" as ham "interfered with"

silverbullet wrote:

pictonroad wrote:

Looks like your gearlever is badly twisted , so you'll need to check the alignment of the mounting plate. That's why the rod fork has mullered the rear guide block I would guess...

Covkid - Always better to have a half-decent pattern to start off, given the choice...

looks worse more twisted than it is as was of the van at the time. Das hamfursted bavarian fellow had snapped the stick low down and i had to grind of loads of weld smeg to get the spring moving.
does'nt change to badly considering the rest of the mess in there as the sliding joint on the shaft had been pushed together all the way. and once i removed a plastic bottle lid from the cup at the gearbox end that also helped lol.

Aidan wrote:and the worn nylon tips to the stick wouldn't help - they are part of stick not available separately
some replacements for those would be a good thing and for the ones on the 4 speed linkage too as they wear and then can cause selection issues, especially on syncros driven by ham "interfered with" peeps

The nylon tips are fixed how exactly? Rivetted/moulded on/snap fit ? Never thought to investigate - mine are all slathered in black greasy cack so I'm not looking...
I'm supposed to be changing a pair of cvj's right now. The rain has stopped!

You can actually change gear without the blocks as we found out - long as you know roughly where the gears are. I'm replacing mine over the summer but as I say, I'm using PTFE replacements rather than ally - making a few sets for 5-speeds.

moulded on I think, maybe snap fit, never seen one up close and clean
the syncro/4 speed version appear to be moulded on there is a small hole in the metal and the nylon goes through it, but a nylon pin would probably do the job, maybe how they were done, never seen a new one and not available from classic to get one to pattern from
I've wrapped ptfe tape round a worn one before now but you don't want to make it too thick as it can affect the accuracy of the shift, 4" between shift planes at the knob translates to just 7mm at the gearbox

CovKid wrote:You can actually change gear without the blocks as we found out - long as you know roughly where the gears are. I'm replacing mine over the summer but as I say, I'm using PTFE replacements rather than ally - making a few sets for 5-speeds.

Err, Yes please!!!

Will let you know when they're done. Should take some of the 'clank' out of the selection at the front, make it more positive and good wear characteristics. PTFE not cheap, but would rather use that or Nylon than ally. Originals are not 'handed' either, both ally blocks when fitted new were identical castings. If people would like the PTFE/Nylon ones, I'll do a long run.

I'll pick up on remaking the OEM spec alloy ones, once Aidan can find a good 'un.
Not convinced about using plastic in this application myself