Club 80-90 Forums

"Plug issue"??

Well if leads/dizzy cap are damaged or ill fitting then you are poss chasing a non fault... make sure all components are in good nick and connected properly...

Yeah, I had to hack away at the clip for hours but sorted it in the end. Presume this wouldn't affect any spark from the coil; only at dizzy end? I had to go through the side of the clip in the end as it was the only way to get it to fit but I did insulate the terminals with tape when I connected back up...

Also, just wondering if the issue might be the idle stabilisation unit. Trying to decipher the wiring diagram and looks like this feeds the dizzy wiring plug and I know these units can fail. Could I just connect the terminals together to bypass this for the test...?

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:
Also, just wondering if the issue might be the idle stabilisation unit. Trying to decipher the wiring diagram and looks like this feeds the dizzy wiring plug and I know these units can fail. Could I just connect the terminals together to bypass this for the test...?

Yes, you can and this should be done when setting your timing anyway

put the plug and socket together and dont bother trying find a replacement ... could be the cause of your troubles...

Cheers - I'll try that first (as it's easy! )

Just wondering now whether the fact I've hacked that plug about whether this is causing an issue? If the plug on the dizzy was not live, would I still get a spark from the coil HT lead?

Presume the wiring plug on the dizzy just powers the Hall sender?

if you have hacked the dizzy wiring then its poss no signal.. the hall sender has to see power and "triggers" the amplifier.. nothing here would mean nothing at the coil.......
I'd be finding a good used "loom" to replace it if any doubts over the reliability of the "repaired" one

Hi,

Didn't actually hack the wiring as removed before hacking the clip so this should be ok.

I will double check all the connections though on this and then just work back with voltmeter to see if I can find where problem lies - I do think this may be stabiliser unit but haven't had chance to get out to van yet this week...

Quick update. Managed to get half and hour on the van last night.

Reconnected leisure battery and put starter battery back in after having charged.
Disconnected wires from idle stabiliser and connected them together instead.
Tested feed from ignition to coil on multimeter with ignition on - just over 12 volts.
Tested earthing point at dizzy - just over 12 volts.
Tested 2 outside terminals on dizzy wiring plug - just under 12 volts.
Checked dizzy wiring plug sitting / contacting correctly - appears so.

Turned van over but didn't fire but petrol may have evaporated from cylinders? Didn't have anyone around to test to see if got a spark so may have already cured it without knowing.

Any other suggestions as to wiring tests to do if I haven't already cured it, running out of ideas again...

Ok - been out tonight and checked - still no spark at either plug or coil HT dizzy end

So, followed Bentley manual process check and got the following:-

tested 2 outer terminals of dizzy wiring plug - c. 12 volts so think okay.
tested postive on coil to negative on coil - got just about 10 volts for couple of secs then 0, so again think okay but manual says should be 2v then 0?
put positive from multimter into centre pin of wiring dizzy plug with negative to dizzy earthing point - got about 2v then 0 so looks ok.
grounded ht from dizzy and terminals 3 & 6 to control amplifier (unit with 6 pins attached to side of engine bay) . Got (3v) - negative. Switched terminals on tester over between 3 & 6 but still got (3v)? Manual says should alternate between 0 & 2v when turning engine over but didn't seem to change but could on turn very slowly due to access so is this a problem?

If this is the likely problem, Bentley manual states solutions are either 'replace hall generator' or 'distributor'. My confusion here is they seem to interchange what they call the hall generator with the haal control unit in the pictures. What is this telling I need to change - the unit with 6 pin connector attached to side of engine bay or the hall unit within the dizzy?

I would really appreciate help from you clever people as seem so close now and desparate to get out in the van real soon....

Have you checked the coil resistance?

I am away from home at the min so wont be back on till Mon I should think.. will have a think...

Cheers for this. I haven't checked coil resistance and not sure how to do this...? Also, it is a brand new coil which worked before strip down so whilst I appreciate these can still fail, seems unlikely?

Been having a think over night and the only thing I have changed on the ignition since van last ran was the Hall generator in the dizzy so think it has got to be this and the tests kind of suggest this as well. (Yet more crap product from JK - wish I'd bought the Brickwerks one now! )

What I am going to do today is whip the dizzy out (again), strip down again and put the original Hall unit back in and see if I can tape up the wiring plug somehow for now. Then retest and see if get a spark. If so, defo Hall unit. If not, might have to see about getting the dizzy to auto electricians and see if they can refurb but running out of time as supposed to be going on hols in a few weeks in the van...

Fingers crossed...

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Ok - been out tonight and checked - still no spark at either plug or coil HT dizzy end

So, followed Bentley manual process check and got the following:-

tested 2 outer terminals of dizzy wiring plug - c. 12 volts so think okay.
tested postive on coil to negative on coil - got just about 10 volts for couple of secs then 0, so again think okay but manual says should be 2v then 0?
put positive from multimter into centre pin of wiring dizzy plug with negative to dizzy earthing point - got about 2v then 0 so looks ok.
grounded ht from dizzy and terminals 3 & 6 to control amplifier (unit with 6 pins attached to side of engine bay) . Got (3v) - negative. Switched terminals on tester over between 3 & 6 but still got (3v)? Manual says should alternate between 0 & 2v when turning engine over but didn't seem to change but could on turn very slowly due to access so is this a problem?

If this is the likely problem, Bentley manual states solutions are either 'replace hall generator' or 'distributor'. My confusion here is they seem to interchange what they call the hall generator with the haal control unit in the pictures. What is this telling I need to change - the unit with 6 pin connector attached to side of engine bay or the hall unit within the dizzy?

I would really appreciate help from you clever people as seem so close now and desparate to get out in the van real soon....

You should probably do what I done and order a new coil and ignition hall unit from JK, bung them on one at a time and see if they fix the problems and if they dont send them back.

Albert

oh and my new coil went in a week so it is possible

You have put the low voltage coil wires on the right terminals have you? Mine has one wire on #1 and two or three on #15

Hello all.

Good news - I've fixed it!!

Did as I said, whipped dizzy out and stripped down again but put old wiring plug on from old unit (taped excessively with duck tape) leaving new Hall generator on from JK. Put back in fired up and eureka, got spark at coil Checked for spark at plug and yeay, it was there as well!!

Well chuffed at having sorted this now as was doing my head in. Thanks for everyones help - I couldn't have done it without you

On to my next problem now; no fuel feeding carbs as mentioned on my previous thread. I fed the carbs direct with fuel and she ran for a few seconds until the fuel was all burnt Sounding ace and loads more powerful than before. Repeated this a few times but still couldn't seem to get fuel drawing through by items once vacuum should have built up in fuel pump. Sure its something simple so gonna have another look tomorrow and might need to get the pump off...

Thanks again - getting close...

If you have a helper around, remove rotor arm, or HT lead at coil and with fuel pipe removed from carb, see if its pumping fuel (jar is handy) when you turn engine over. If it is, then turn your attention to carb.

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Hello all.

Good news - I've fixed it!!

Did as I said, whipped dizzy out and stripped down again but put old wiring plug on from old unit (taped excessively with duck tape) leaving new Hall generator on from JK. Put back in fired up and eureka, got spark at coil Checked for spark at plug and yeay, it was there as well!!

Well chuffed at having sorted this now as was doing my head in. Thanks for everyones help - I couldn't have done it without you

On to my next problem now; no fuel feeding carbs as mentioned on my previous thread. I fed the carbs direct with fuel and she ran for a few seconds until the fuel was all burnt Sounding ace and loads more powerful than before. Repeated this a few times but still couldn't seem to get fuel drawing through by items once vacuum should have built up in fuel pump. Sure its something simple so gonna have another look tomorrow and might need to get the pump off...

Thanks again - getting close...

Well chuffed for ya mate