Club 80-90 Forums

xpress wrote:testing to see if it affects the idle and which hose(s) are the culprit if any.

i can't find any reference in the haynes to vaccuum advance diaghragm for replacement and testing, any info or pics anywhere?

With engine running spray abit of WD40 around vac hose areas and see if revs pick up, that will show any air leaks....but be very carefull you don't spray it on anything too hot

i did this, revs picked up, there's an air leak there somewhere.

xpress wrote:i did this, revs picked up, there's an air leak there somewhere.

Your getting close then, keep spraying till you can pin point it...bet its the brake vac hose

what one are you placing your bets on?



http://media.photobucket.com/image/vacu ... -Engin.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

interestingly in my engine i don't have this bar going across, i don't think i have this big black box with the four big pipes either, (vac?)

also, this papery wide pipe stuff around the right of the engine bay, connecting up to the exhaust, it's sitting there in bits at the moment, i might try taping it up! it looks like the air out breather pipes?

Thats an Aircooled engine you will probably have a watercooled
The brake servo hose is the creamish\see through pipe under where it says LPG adjustment screws (this is an LPG converted engine so it will have a few extra bits) The vacuum advance pipe goes from the rear of the carb to the distributor.

hi folks, i am out there now, slaving away. feedback is welcome. i am near richmond, surrey, sw london if anyone fancies a tinker more than welcome to pm me and come around! i changed the diz cap and rotor arm, i don't know whether it's this that improved the cold start/warm up or fixing those breather pipes back up, (albeit without tape first, just slotted back into each other).

took resistance readings of the ht leads that are currently on the van.

top left spark plug furthest away - 6.11
top right furthest away - 5.90
coil - 6.8
bottom left nearest to me - 6.39
bottom right nearest to me - 6.50

i noted that the leads were a bit fussy trying to get a reading with the probe stuck into the spark plug end of the leads - the ceramic, is that normal?
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* this is the engine bay ..


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** i put my rubber gloved hands around the black (left) and white (right) vac hoses, no change in idle, but might affect an hc reading from a sniffer on the tailpipe ..



more to come (pics of breather hoses and their apparent non connectedness lol ..

what are these hoses for, to recirculate warm air? should they be connected up to each other in any way or is this ok?

what would it do if they're not connected up properly and there's gaps where they should be taped up?

if they should be connected up, in what way and what advantage does it have when they're all taped up?

thank you all.

next job is replacing the nearside front brake hose, any tips or is that straightforward? going to bluetack the brake lines as i pull it out and replace.

PS i do have a new set of ht leads, should i replace them or are the values in the previous post ok? i was a bit worried about the high resistance value from the king lead that runs from the coil to the top middle of the diz cap. also, the diz under the rotor arm has some rust on it.

the car is running and idling better and stronger, might be the breathers in place or the new diz cap and rotor arm. and stronger battery.

also can someone quickly walk me through replacing bulb on the offside rear fog lamp, just taken them out units look sealed. will be working on that too.

i am not sure what the tester meant about the front dipped and main beam not working, they work when i press the switch on the left only one setting on or off. the switch at the right is that for rear foglight? this isn't working. there seems to be an off setting and two settings on there, what are they for? thank you.

Fog switch has off on on for front and rear fog lights!

i don't get it, on the rear light cluster, there's these lights on the right middle edge for the left cluster and left middle edge for right cluster. the left one doesn't seem to do anything, seems like a dummy light, but when i plug that light into the right cluster left middle edge, it turns on when the right fog light switch is put into second position and the orange led lights up on that switch. do you only have one rear fog light on rear cluster?

also my reverse lights either have stopped working or haven't been working, are they an mot requirement? i have just checked it seems they aren't. is there a separate fuse for reversing lights in the fuse box?

yes the off side rear fog works, the nearside is a dummy

the reversing lights also have a switch on the nearside, just look for the wires.
check that they are attached and not corroded.
the switch is available from GSF

From the photo's your breather hose looks to be collapsed (a common failing) here's the replacement part ...

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?p ... t&Itemid=6

I'm not loving that rusted water union either ... you need to start and take care of this bus or save for some good walking boots.

Ian.

it's a work in progress, progress made today.

i don't want to save for walking boots! what do you suggest we do there, scrape the rust off and grease it there at the water union? the van is slowly and surely being derusted inside and outside. will repaint engine parts along the way. bye bye rat look. just wanted to get a ticket on her first.

the new front bulbs threw me a bit until i worked out how to attach them

new main beam lights installed and working (that's why the lights were so bad!

rear fog light working, took one out of the dummy and put in the rear fog on the right. i have the early set of fuses under the glovebox. what's the more modern ten amp fuse to the right of the ceramic ones, and then there's two ceramic fuses to the right of that, they look like bolt on additions to the fuse box. changed the hazard fuse, still intermittent so will have to get a new hazard switch.

one thing, i can't find the fuse for the reversing lights, they're not working. haynes says for early buses it's in the engine bay. can't find it tho! any clues?

could the collapsed breather be causing rough idle/bad cutting out cold start?