Club 80-90 Forums

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Just so I'm clear, to prime the carbs with fuel as mentioned here, do I put a capful of fuel in each carb, then reattach the air box, etc or just turn it over without it on? Sorry for silly questions again...

There is also the option of putting an electric pump on the van - but you need to wire it up so it shuts off if the ignition is killed and also if the dizzy stops (don't want fuel pumping out when the engine has stopped due to a smash/failure etc!)

Hi,

Quick update.

Put capful of fuel down each carb and tried to fire - still nothing, not even a splutter! So tried to check if got spark following Haynes. Removed HT lead off no.1. and held against block (lead only, plug still in). Couldn't see any sparks... am I doing this right? Did try this just before with the plug still attached and did see a weak spark but think may be flattening battery now? Would this be enough to not see anything from HT lead to block?

I'm sure this is something really simple just to get it firing but not getting anywhere fast and doing my heas in now!!

Also, tried tightening oil cooler nuts up in a bid to stop the leak but still like niagra falls. Also checked it wasn't presuure switch which it doesn't appear to be. Tomorrow's job then is to get cooler off with engine in and check seals sitting right. I've looked at the ones I took off and noticed they are different both sides - just wondering if I put these on right in the first place!? Will let you know how I get on...

Leave the spark plug attached to the ht lead and make sure the bit of the block you touch is clean and dont forget to hold the spark with a pair of insulated pliers.

You should really get two new oil cooler seals as they get rather squashed over time

I am writting up the steps with piccys for the oil cooler removal but wont get time by tommorrow so here are the basic steps but no images im afraid

Removing oil cooler from a 2ltr CU Aircooled engine - Engine in situ

1. Remove the plug from the back of the alternator



2. Remove the two alternator bolts (see image)

3. Remove the V-belt

4. Remove the throttle cable spring support rom the fan housing

5. Remove the bolt from the dipstick support from the fan housing and turn dipstick 90 degrees to the right

6. Remove the upper oil filler tube (see image)

7. Remove the fan gaurd and timing scale (see image)

8. Unbolt the three bolts from the fan and remove - might need a good tap and a gentle crow barring (see image)

9. Remove both left and righthand corner tinware pieces - furtest to the rear (see image). You will need to remove the rear heat shield under the timware as well. You might not have to remove the righthand side if you can get the fan housing bolts off. I had to as I didnt have enough space to get to one bolt.

10.Unbolt the lower metal oil filler tube by taking out the easy to reach bolt and loosen the other one by around 3mm - This will give you enough movement to get the fan housing out. Otherwise there isnt quite enough space. (see image)

11.Unbolt the oil cooler strap that conects to the fan housing (see image)

12. You can now remove the fan housing by undoing the 4 fan housing bolts (see image)

13. Now you can get to the three bolts that hold the oil cooler on - undo these (see image)

14. Slide oil cooler towards you and remove (see image)

15. Allways replace the oil cooler seals (see image)

Cheers

Cheers for this mate - looks like a top write up! I'll let you know how it goes. Shame you so far away, I could do with your help!!

On the spark checking thing, do I actually hold plug so it is touching the block?

Soz, also, if I have got spark and now presumably petrol in the cylinder, why would it not be firing? Presume I don't want to put more petrol in the carbs at this stage as will flood the engine? (wait until existin fuel has been burnt first?)...

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Cheers for this mate - looks like a top write up! I'll let you know how it goes. Shame you so far away, I could do with your help!!

On the spark checking thing, do I actually hold plug so it is touching the block?

Yes the bottom of the plug should touch the block and then you will be able to see the spark jump from the centre of the plug to the plug terminal?

Did you knock the dizzy at all becuase if there is a spark and its turning over quick enough and fuel in carbs it should at least fire. Dont worry to much about flooding it. When you remove the plug if its wet then its flooded.

If the timing is out then It might not fire. Are the leads on the right way?

Albert

Thanks again for your help. I'm glad I'm not the only one with engine problems. Just want to get out and use the van in this nice weather...

The dizzy has been removed completely during the top end rebuild I did (including the driveshaft). I have followed the haynes for HT lead arrangement. That said, is it correct that the lead from no 1 cylinder is effectively the bottom right on the dizzy (looking from back of vehicle to front) and the lead for no 2 cylinder is top right? This is the other way round on the left hand head, with lead to no 3 being top left and no 4 being bottom left. Just doesn't look right to me somehow but I'm sure haynes is right...

I think I will also check in the morning that my mate who put the dizzy back on put this in right position. I seem to recollect the roor arm was pointing at no 1 and matched the notch in the dizzy plus the vacuum advance would be in the way if it was fitted wrong (I think?)...

Soz, me again.

If the timing was way out, how would I test?

Bought a strobe light but wasn't any evident timing mark on the fan pulley.

Whilst it is probably not spot on at the mo, would hope it was close enough to fire...?

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:Soz, me again.

If the timing was way out, how would I test?

Bought a strobe light but wasn't any evident timing mark on the fan pulley.

Whilst it is probably not spot on at the mo, would hope it was close enough to fire...?

There is a mark its just really hard to find. Get your rotor arm at 3 oclock and look at the back of the pully, there is a tiny notch.

If you cant find it, put a wine cork in clyinder no 1 (top right) and turn over by hand and when on the compression stroke the cork will pop out. You will then know you are there or roundabouts. This will be enought for you to very carefully look and feel the back face of the pully and find the notch.

When you have found it, mark it

5degs ATDC at 850 rpm for your strobe

By the way, I had my timing don e by a garage and worked fine but the van sat four 6 months and that coupled with the timing being wrong, the van wouldnt fire.

You da man!

When you say get rotor arm to 3 o'clock, where will the timing mark be on pulley - at 0 degrees (i.e. TDC)?

And when you say look at the back of the pulley, do you mean the face of the pulley you can see if you look through the oil filler flap? If not, how do you look at this with the fan housing on?

You're right when you say it's hard to find. I have had the pulley off completely dduring rebuild and still couldn't find it as I wanted to mark it whilst it was out. The onluy thing I could find was what looked like a seem where the pulley had been cast or something - is that it?

I'm off t buy a bottle of wine now so I can use the cork tomorrow - the hardships we have to go through for our vans...

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:You da man!

When you say get rotor arm to 3 o'clock, where will the timing mark be on pulley - at 0 degrees (i.e. TDC)?

Should be - I take that you have the plastic timing scale fitted

[quote="orangebooboobearcrew"And when you say look at the back of the pulley, do you mean the face of the pulley you can see if you look through the oil filler flap? If not, how do you look at this with the fan housing on?[/quote]

Well yes just not the front face, the back face, nearest the fan housing. Its tiny, really small and maybe covered in crap

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:You're right when you say it's hard to find. I have had the pulley off completely dduring rebuild and still couldn't find it as I wanted to mark it whilst it was out. The onluy thing I could find was what looked like a seem where the pulley had been cast or something - is that it?

I dont think so, but when your cork pops you know you are within an inch of it

orangebooboobearcrew wrote:I'm off t buy a bottle of wine now so I can use the cork tomorrow - the hardships we have to go through for our vans...

Make sure its a real cork and not plastic

Oh and by the way im no expert but I had so many issues with my van and all the info supplied is from other people helping me

Cheers

Update...

Had a mixed day.

Checked timing and the clown who I had helping me before had put the dizzy drive shaft in wrong so it was about 30 degrees out! No wonder it wouldn't fire. So got driveshaft back out and tried to find TDC doing the cable tie through the spark plug hole on no. 1 cylinder trick.
Had a massive barney at the missus as when I was turning the engine by hand, the cable tie didn't seem to be going up and down and told her she was useless and got father in law up to help instead. I was then put right back in my place as when he turned it over and I shine torch down hole, of course, the piston move horizontally not vertically - derr!!!
So then managed to find tdc on no. 1 - then a eurake moment - managed to spot the tiny (and I mean tiny) notch in the pulley which the timing mark! Hoorah!!! That really helps with TDC as can line up pulley to timing scale.
Then put dizzy driveshaft back in whilst at tdc and lined up rotor arm to point at no.1 and notch in dizzy body. All looking good and was convinced was gonna fire this time. More petrol down carbs - turned over several times but still no fire
Turned engine over by hand again and pretty sure 180 degrees out as on exhaust stroke not compression (although it was a bit hit and miss to tell to an idiot like me).
So, dizzy and shaft out again, turned 180 degrees, put all back together but noticed the electrical connector on dizzy (electric ignition) had broke off slightly Got dizzy off again, got a bits out and tried again- convinced cracked it this time! You guessed it - still no fire!!

Lost will to live now - will van ever run again? Is dizzy "fubar'd" now? Is it something else or still 180 degrees out as I am not sure about which stroke is which....
I'm off to boil my head now...

I told you to pop a cork in it as it will pop out on compression stroke

I dont mean right in just gently pushed in, it will fit exact

What do you mean when you say the electical connection had broken off as you def need this plugged in and working

Cheers

Hi Albert,

Yeah did do the cork trick and worked great as you said.

The problem is clearly me!!! I went to bed Sunday night really frustrated and confused and took the trusty Haynes with me for a bit of bedtime reading and to go over everything I had done.

Then - hey presto, the penny dropped. I was being a total donut! I was aligning the dizzy so the arm was pointing a no.1 itself (i.e. 2 o'clock) and not the no.1 section of the dizzy cap (i.e. 4 o'clock).Wot a drongo!!! Obviously been looking at it too long...

Gonna have another go this weekend...

The wiring connector on the dizzy snapped off but managed to get another one and stripped it down last night ready to put the new one in...