Page 2 of 2

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 09 Dec 2009, 11:55
by VERAT25
just a tip/

when drilling place small socket/or tube over drill bit/ only have enough flute showing to drill floor to depth.maybe stopping well short of tank.(thats how i done mine)

verat25(cardiff) :ok :ok :ok :ok

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 09 Dec 2009, 18:31
by Mr Bean
HarryMann wrote:Yes Ken, that often works, Mini-Moles, good technique, and of course....

it's in the Wiiiiiiikkkkkkkkkkkkkkiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii :lol:

In an ideal world the Wiki would do this particular forum out of business! So maybe its just as well pepes don't look there first.
Cheers
Wolfie
:ok

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 09 Dec 2009, 19:15
by HarryMann
when drilling place small socket/or tube over drill bit/ only have enough flute showing to drill floor to depth.maybe stopping well short of tank.(thats how i done mine)

masking tape or insulating tape wrapped around was alwasy the original workmans trick :wink:

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 09 Dec 2009, 21:06
by mikey9
contacted kenfast (the importer for the ez stuff)

Dear Mike

Kemfast Aeropspace are the uk stockist of this product

£10.25 per 3 oz bottle

Min order £100.00

Ex stk

Best regards
Howard

Anyone want 9 bottles???

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 09 Dec 2009, 22:39
by samk
has anyone checked Ebay yet for EZ Grip? i read a posting somewhere on the mass expanse of the web where someone in the UK stated they sourced some from t'bay

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 10 Dec 2009, 08:23
by BombHead
mikey9 wrote:contacted kenfast (the importer for the ez stuff)

Dear Mike

Kemfast Aeropspace are the uk stockist of this product

£10.25 per 3 oz bottle

Min order £100.00

Ex stk

Best regards
Howard

Anyone want 9 bottles???

Hang fast, I'm working on the return of a favour.............

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 10 Dec 2009, 17:39
by Mr Bean
I have done a whole lot of what we used to call Salvage Schemes in an Aerospace/Defence environment and to be honest I am somewhat sceptical of the claims of this product. This goes for penetrating oils for releasing corroded in fixings and friction reducing coating to overcome poor design work. The real fault here is in the use of posidrive screws in an environment which invites corrosion and damage to the key interface. I would always recommend careful cleaning of the screwdriver slot/s and selection of the correct driver tool. Why there are so many types of "Pozidrive" type drives puzzles me! My stance is that you can't apply sound design and proper tooling by the use of magic potions.
Cheers
Wolfie the cynic
Funny thing is that when Molyslip came out it released the nuts on my BSA 650 big end bolts! Probably as I hadn't replaced them in a rebuild before any smartarse pipes up. And when you put Slick 50 in a non fuel injected engine you need to slow the tickover down afterwards.

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 10 Dec 2009, 18:02
by CovKid
I too use teflon (Slick 50, Nulon etc) in my engine and have done since the 80s, both as an added belt n' braces approach to engine wear and for improved performance. And yes you do need to reduce tickover as it clings to rough surfaces and seals gaps and as a result it needs less fuel to run it. I have on one occasion run a beetle dry of oil (late 80s by accident) and it was fine after a top up - testament to the properties of teflon. Abuse is abuse I guess but good maintenance PLUS a good additive does prolong engine life.

Is it not possible to get to these screws from underneath and spray liberally with plusgas? I had to do that with bolts securing the blower fan under the dash to avoid them snapping.

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 10 Dec 2009, 18:53
by HarryMann
Ralph
Access underneath alluded to above too.. always a good place to spray +Gas from, or even get a mole-grip on !

Ken
I'm sure this stuff is good, it sounds like the business, can't explain,, just 'cos - and Mr Bombhead says it works v.well, and think Kemfast must be selling heaps

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 11 Dec 2009, 16:53
by Mr Bean
CovKid wrote:I too use teflon (Slick 50, Nulon etc) in my engine and have done since the 80s, both as an added belt n' braces approach to engine wear and for improved performance. And yes you do need to reduce tickover as it clings to rough surfaces and seals gaps and as a result it needs less fuel to run it. I have on one occasion run a beetle dry of oil (late 80s by accident) and it was fine after a top up - testament to the properties of teflon. Abuse is abuse I guess but good maintenance PLUS a good additive does prolong engine life.

Yes I used to race my 14' Aluminium speedboat in 20 minute full throttle triangular circuits on Windermere and on two ocasions did a lap with the dry sump circuit empty do to plumbing failure. (I caught up on my smoke trail caused by the oil being thrown onto the hot engine.) The 1600cc crossflow engine is still maintaining its 38 PSI oil pressure over twenty five years later and hasn't even needed its tappets adjusted. I'd vote for Slick 50 any time although I havent tried it in my Waterboxer yet for some strage reason...
Regards
Wolfie

Re: Removing knackered screws

Posted: 12 Dec 2009, 16:21
by samk
got down to this today. Tried using the screw removing set and it didnt work (harrymann you have the right to say i told you so!) the heat did slightly melt the rubber and plastic holding bracket around the screws though so i could just lift the matt out. Not the idea soultion but it works for me :wink: jobs a goodun!!