Club 80-90 Forums

Honestly guys you have been so helpful I really appreciate it. Just wanted to ask more wquestion, it doesn't look like the head gasket has gone just the o\s seal. Is there anyone localish to coventry who could may be give me a hand (if I decide to go down that route ?)who's knows a bit more than i do on engines. I can supply loads of tea or beer tokens\ cash ?

Thanks

Hi Nindy, as you will have seen if you did read the thread I linked to, this is an engine out job plus heads off too. This usually involves taking the Liners off the Pistons too, so a full set of gaskets and "O" ring liner seals will be required anyway (around £100 for the set off Simon Baxter @ "Brickwerks")

One of the main things you will need at this time of year (along with patience and money) is somewhere warm and dry to do the job !

It is quite possible that someone with the necessary experience will offer to help (many are like that on here ) but it is quite a big job.

How bad is this leak - i.e. dripping slightly or gushing out ? (You will see why I ask when you reply )

Whoever does look at this, may I suggest you check all the THIN water pipes, both rubber and metal, esp the "T" pieces in the metal pipe that runs around the engine bay, for blockages. Also, replace the blue "Dalek" looking water pressure cap on the white tank to yopur left of the engine bay. Reason is = Blockages and jammed pressure release caps can cause very excess pressures to build up in the water system and can cause the leak to break through in a weakened (old & damaged) head to liner seal. Plus, if you do the job, you don't want to have further problems later on caused by overpressure in the water system. ( From reading on here, I am not the only one to have fallen for that trap ).

This is from the thread I linked to re this side of the problem =

KarlT wrote:Also more thoughts...........
Cleaned out the bleed pipes from top of engine. This was in one............



While the other was blocked by plastic, the T' junction mold hadn't been cleaned out properly, Had to drill it out. I'm sure the pressure build-up is what eventually caused the seals to go.

Go & check your bleed pipes, Just disconnect from engine & check that coolant can run out. If it can't look further.

At the moment it seems to be about an egg cup of coolant, I have read that a guy on here has put 'k' seal in the system and ran it for 8,000 miles.

I have double garage with most tools and space heater too, it just depends If I decide to go down that route. I was just wondering if there was anyone out there or could help as I have never done any internal engine work.

I work in IT and am quite logical and technically minded if that helps

The engine has done 225,000 miles if that helps the equation ?

I called a chap who is selling a 2.1 wasserboxer engine but it requires a flywheel ( I'm guessing I can put mine on) and he said the shims require setting up, totally lost me there. The engine has been reconditioned, would it be more practical to to get this engine, instead of messing around with the old one thats currently in ?

So many decisions hey !!! Bloody bought the camper to have a good time in it and it seems to be turning into a money pit already !!

Yes I have read the read that you posted hence why I was asking of anyone was able to help as its a big job.
Thanks for the reply's and comments .............

nindy wrote:At the moment it seems to be about an egg cup of coolant, I have read that a guy on here has put 'k' seal in the system and ran it for 8,000 miles.

Yep, that is why I asked.
For the sake of the £7 it costs, it might be worth a try.
Only use K seal though, as I have read that the cheaper types are unsuitable for WBX engines.

nindy wrote:I have double garage with most tools and space heater too, it just depends If I decide to go down that route.

That helps

nindy wrote: I work in IT and am quite logical and technically minded if that helps

So do I

nindy wrote: The engine has done 225,000 miles if that helps the equation ?

I wonder if that is just vehicle mileage, or actual engine mileage, if the latter, unless VERY well looked after and serviced, it is an "old" engine (imho of course)

nindy wrote:I called a chap who is selling a 2.1 wasserboxer engine but it requires a flywheel ( I'm guessing I can put mine on) and he said the shims require setting up, totally lost me there. The engine has been reconditioned, would it be more practical to to get this engine, instead of messing around with the old one thats currently in ?

Take great care buying a used engine, 50 : 50 I would say as to whether you get a good un or not, and they ain't cheap if you end up with a duff one ( ask me how I know ) All depends on the price. They are always in high demand so folks can get at least £300 for one that they consider good (note careful wording there).

A guaranteed recon (Elite being the most oft recommended) is around £1000 but believe me, if, when I had to go through all this, I knew what I know now, I would have raised heaven and earth to get that recon instead of the 3 months hassle and LOADS of expence I went through. That is just my story of course, others have been luckier !! (or better judges )

nindy wrote:So many decisions hey !!! Bloody bought the camper to have a good time in it and it seems to be turning into a money pit already !!

Next Summer, when you are away in the camper, sitting around the BBQ, chatting to friends, you will look back on all this and smile.

nindy wrote:Yes I have read the read that you posted hence why I was asking of anyone was able to help as its a big job.

Jolly good, don't forget about that blockage checking, esp if you are going to try K Seal.

Thanks Ghost !! You have lifted my spirits defo !

I just rang Elite (probably opening a can of worms now with debates, I have read the 'Elite' posts on 80 -90 forum).

Would you recomend Elite, they say they can either rebulid mine or fit a recon unit ( not sure what they rebulid and keep) for 980 english pounds !

thoughts pls ?

Thanks

nindy wrote:Thanks Ghost !! You have lifted my spirits defo !

I just rang Elite (probably opening a can of worms now with debates, I have read the 'Elite' posts on 80 -90 forum).

Would you recomend Elite, they say they can either rebulid mine or fit a recon unit ( not sure what they rebulid and keep) for 980 english pounds !

thoughts pls ?

Thanks

I have had no experiences personally re buying a recon WBX engine, I wish I had
I have had plenty of experience buying duff used ones though
I did eventually find a good un from a regular on here ( again a big thanks to Billy739 for finding me that engine )

However from what I have learned over the years, mostly on here, Elite seem to be the best bet, esp at the price. Most folks say the engines are good, if problems arise they are attended to, I have heard it said that they can be slow refunding the P/X deposit, though as with everything, different folks experiences will vary (ymmv).

As for

they say they can either rebulid mine or fit a recon unit ( not sure what they rebulid and keep)

Swings and roundabouts I suppose, might be faster to get a replacement recon one.

Re what I would do = Personally I would get an Elite jobby, fitted by Elite (FREE) or by one of their recommended fitters (to maintain the warranty). I know the highly recommended Mr Baxter of "Brickwerks" has said on here that he reckons a re-con is preferable to the cost and hassle of repairing one. Not sure who is his fave recon company though, he might drop in with a word or two.

Others are also likely to pop by soon and help you make up your mind

Our Elite recon DJ is on about 30,000 miles (in 19 months) and there's nothing to report so far.

I also have the parts to rebuild a DJ and they alone cost Shell UK £500 (that's without pistons and rods but it does include a new crankshaft) as for what Elite actually do for the extra cash you would have to ask them.

I guess it depends how much you want to meet and understand the innards of a WBXer

Ian.

This thread is beginning to get very intresting, more thoughts pls !