Club 80-90 Forums

Posted: **15 Nov 2009, 16:33**

strip the engine!

dont buy any parts untill its stripped!

if there is any corrosion on the head studes or they snap whilst undoing then you will have to completely strip the block and have it machined to remove them , this is the point most engines are scrapped due to costs!

in an ideal world so you can trust your engine and are confident its all good , strip every nut and bolt and replace all worn parts!
fit a complete set of headstuds and inlet/exhaust valves as a matter of course.

any time you cut costs you need to ask why bother at all? fit the best quality parts you can , it isant a cheap job but done right it will do you proud!

add to the price thermostat , water pump, thermostat housing, clutch if anywhere close, and i would get as many new ccolant pipes as you can!

Posted: **16 Nov 2009, 20:38**

Thanks for all the help

I know the head gasket and head to case gasket need to be replaced,but i have no idea what the liner to case o rings are? Ive looked on that post and it makes the process alot clearer but im still confused about the o rings.

Posted: **17 Nov 2009, 11:48**

fix wrote:Thanks for all the help

I know the head gasket and head to case gasket need to be replaced,but i have no idea what the liner to case o rings are? Ive looked on that post and it makes the process alot clearer but im still confused about the o rings.

Basically they are "O" rings that fit around the liner to stop the oil and water mixing.
The main one is low down on the liner and replacing it requires liners out, pistons out and all that that entails. I have heard of folks managing to change them without taking the liners right off the pistons, but I guess this is not the "right way".

Posted: **17 Nov 2009, 12:33**

I was thinking last night about the o rings and realised what they were, I guess from mainly doing motorbike work i classed the liners as barrels if and didnt twig with what the o rings were for.

So I guess there are 4 o rings on each head,one for each end of the liners?

Like in the link you showed the liners can end up coming out with the heads, and like you say even if they dont they are likely to be disturbed.

Ill judge at the time if the o rings can be replaced without moving the pistons, but im working on the basis of doing it all properly!

And ghost i can see that if this project goes ahead ill be speaking to you more often

Posted: **17 Nov 2009, 20:58**

I bought a sliding door hinge off that guy in March it was the wrong one ( he stated it would fit ) I E- mailed him twice and got nothing....
would not recomend.

Posted: **17 Nov 2009, 20:58**

Westfalia shop I mean....

Posted: **18 Nov 2009, 08:39**

Thats weird orange as he seemed a nice guy and delivered the engine himself in the boot of his car as he has family up here, even knocked me some money off for delivery as it didnt go on a pallet.

That said people have good and bad experiences with the same traders,its poor he didnt reply to you though.

Posted: **18 Nov 2009, 17:36**

Is it worth doing a MV from your 1.9? They have gotta be about the same arnt they?

jed

Posted: **18 Nov 2009, 18:10**

Its not really about getting much extra performance its more making sure the engine is up for a trip to Europe, my engine works fine but i havent taken it apart and seen its ok for myself if you get what i mean.

For the price of what it cost i thought it would be better the strip an engine thats already out of a van rather than taking mine out first, then i can still use my van while the mv is being rebuilt.

And i read the mv engine is better for running on the pierburg carb than the dj, as i wont be using injection.

Posted: **21 Nov 2009, 14:27**

Im slowly starting to prepare for removing the studs to see if the engine is going to be worth meddling with,just gone and got some plus gas which ghost recommends over wd40.

When moving the engine i could hear the oil moving about abit too quickly for my liking, so i hoisted the engine up and dropped the oil and found about a cups worth of water in with the oil. I spoke with the guy i got it from and he said it had been outside but covered up for a couple of months so thats when abit of water must have got in, the engine hadnt been run like this.

Ive dropped the oil out and havent put anymore in yet as i dont know whether to just wait until ive finished stripping and replacing the gaskets (hopefully!)

Firstly will abit of water mixed with oil have caused any problems? Im thinking a small percentage mixed with the oil will be ok

Also will i be ok to leave the engine without any oil in while i do the work? It will be kept in my shed so dry but not without plenty of moisture in the air (realisitically it will be a month or two im not rushing this as i have too much on)

Thanks

Posted: **21 Nov 2009, 21:08**

I spoke with the guy i got it from and he said it had been outside but covered up for a couple of months so that's when a bit of water must have got in

= Yeh right

Reading your last post, I would say you are in for a long haul with this engine.

The water in the oil ( or vis versa ) is almost certainly liner to be case seals shot

This will very likely involve all the items covered in the links I supplied further up here

Not to be disheartened though, a successful re-build is very rewarding

p.s. = I bought an engine from the same seller that had exactly the same "issues", though to be fair to him, after a considerable amount of "communication" I did get a refund, and in my case it was £600, so your purchase is less likely to be considered a "rip off"

keep us posted

p.p.s. = Keeping the engine dry of oil ( and water

) will cause no problems for a few weeks while a re-build is planned. (p.p.p.s = as long as it is not "out in the back yard"

)

Posted: **22 Nov 2009, 11:01**

Lol thanks for the vote of confidence ghost!

There was that little water in with the oil that i do think its happened from water getting in from the rain rather than from the coolant system,if it was full of water i would think differently. Though ofcourse i cant be 100% sure.

The engine came from the guys own van not one he was stripping to sell, i dont think he would have gone to the hassle he did to personally bring it to me from cornwall during his family trip if it was a dud. Though again i cant be 100% sure!

Im not sure exactly all the items you mean in the links. Im intending on replacing the gaskets needed,liner o rings,water pump,thermostat and probably piston rings aswell.

Im going to take the rockers off today and soak the studs in plus gas,and will do it again a few times this week then go for removal next weekend. Ill have my welder on stand by

Cheers for all the advice ghost

Posted: **28 Nov 2009, 12:02**

Well i thought id do a quick update.

Ive removed both exhausts with mixed success, on one side ive removed 3 studs and one has broken. Ive done everything i can to remove the broken one and shortened the length of it trying as it really doesnt want to come out, even welding a nut on doesnt help it just breaks the weld.

On the other side ive removed 2 studs, ive grinded off the other 2 and havent used grips to remove them (hopefully they will come out!)

Before i start trying to remove the head bolts ive got a quick question, am i best slightly tightening them before slackening them to break any rust off? (Ive used plus gas and some heat already to help)

Thanks

Posted: **28 Nov 2009, 12:15**

fix wrote:Well i thought id do a quick update.

Ive removed both exhausts with mixed success, on one side ive removed 3 studs and one has broken. Ive done everything i can to remove the broken one and shortened the length of it trying as it really doesnt want to come out, even welding a nut on doesnt help it just breaks the weld.

On the other side ive removed 2 studs, ive grinded off the other 2 and havent used grips to remove them (hopefully they will come out!)

Before i start trying to remove the head bolts ive got a couple of quick questions, am i best slightly tightening them before slackening them to break any rust off? (Ive used plus gas and some heat already to help)

Also i know they need removing in order, is it best fully removing each one before starting on the next or slightly loosening one then moving onto the next?

Thanks

Posted: **28 Nov 2009, 12:23**

Iv'e been looking at that pic for a while, trying to figure out the angle and location.

E D I T = Doh, where did your pic go to - a bit of fast post editing there fix

Personally I don't think the tightening thing is needed.

I often wonder which is best, a gentle increasing pressure or a hefty yank on the bar!

I was going to say "A big jerk on the bar" but decided to reword it

fix wrote:
Also i know they need removing in order, is it best fully removing each one before starting on the next or slightly loosening one then moving onto the next?

Thanks

The loosening order is the opposite of the tightening sequence as listed in the Haynes etc.
defo just crack one JUST, then crack the next one indicated in the sequence.
Then a tiny turn at a time on each in the order shown until they are actually loose.

.

.

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