Club 80-90 Forums

Ok, todays update.

So I am pretty sure that today I have tried most things recommended so far, including:

- Cleaning up/improving the earth connections
- Replacing the ignition module (with a 'topran' (German) equivalent)
- Checked there is power getting to the coil when ignition is on
- Cleaned up and checked all wires were connected (spade connectors on coil, from amp mod and off to the carbs) and there was power at each point when ignition was on - just under 12v
- Checked HT leads were in correct order and making good connections
- Checked that I am getting a solenoid click on carbs when ignition is turned on - click is loud and clear
- Tried to get a spark from the coil lead (using a plug lead with spark plug attached) - not a sausage

So after all that I still can't get my van to start, nor can I see any spark from the coil. I did a lot of continuity testing etc and found nothing odd, although I am no expert (but learning fast!!)

I am racking my brains trying to think of other possible issues, even simple things like - maybe the fuel gage is faulty and it actually just needs fuel? Or perhaps I have fixed the problem but flooded the engine with all the false starts???

Sorry all, but would you mind having another think for me? The only test I couldn't run was the hall sender/sensor test that Simon mentioned was in the Haynes Manual - I couldn't find it in the book! However in the book it does mention that the 'condenser' could be at fault here but I don't seem to have one installed, is it common to not have a condenser? I also don't have an Idle Stabilizing Unit - is that normal?

Thanks again, sorry to go on!

Dave

p.s It transpires that I need some circlip pliers, and I thought I was a decent tool hoarder, pah.

The hall sender is simple to check just remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system, remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug, switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead, if you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

bigherb wrote:The hall sender is simple to check just remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system, remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug, switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead, if you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

Hi, thanks for that, I will try tomorrow

Is it ok to just have the ignition switched on or will someone need to be cranking the engine? i know that the two outside pin on the dizzy plug had a decent volt running through, i think one had close to 12v (red possibly) and the other about 6.40v - think that was green and white.

Cheers
Dave

are you going or know some one going to vanfest?

i can sort out a complete ignition system for you to check/try , coil, loom amp dizzy.

if you connect the earth and posative and spin the dizzy by hand it will create a spark.

you can check/swap items until yours works? let me know what you think.

billy739 wrote:are you going or know some one going to vanfest?

i can sort out a complete ignition system for you to check/try , coil, loom amp dizzy.

if you connect the earth and posative and spin the dizzy by hand it will create a spark.

you can check/swap items until yours works? let me know what you think.

Ah, you're a gentleman but alas I wont be able to make Vanfest, for a fistful of reasons. I really appreciate the offer though

Yes you only need the ignition on.

bigherb wrote:Yes you only need the ignition on.

Great, I'll run that check tomorrow.

ta

bigherb wrote:The hall sender is simple to check just remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system, remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug, switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead, if you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

Hi, ok so when I run this test I definitely get the sparks, so to confirm - this means the hall sensor is most likely at fault and should be replaced.??

I have located one quite nearby, so off on the bicycle I go tis a decent price from what i can tell too - £18.95 plus vat for a Bosch NOS... now to work out how to get the old one out, looking at where the screws are seems the whole dizzy has to come out no?

Cheers
Dave

Wahey!

Today was a success, got the van up and running!

Seems the Hall Sender was to blame, although replacing it was a proper pain - the part I picked up (last one the shop had) was nearly exactly the same as mine, but in fact - completely different, so after a couple of hours fiddling with circlips, drilling out the original rivets and then re-riveting the new magnetic part to my original baseplate, then swapping the new 3 pin clip to the old one.... reinstalled the distributor and fired up on the button!

All in all this has been quite an extensive service of the ignition system, and a big learning curve for me! Thanks for all you advice, top stuff And now I have a whole host of spare parts to take on my travels for the next time something packs up

Next job: Replacing the rattling old back box, methinks a grinder may be a wise purchase

Thanks again
Dave

Well done Dave,
Very interesting feedback on the sequence of checks you did and a great result.

Mike