Club 80-90 Forums

Going on ETKA, there were changes in several of these parts in both April '85 and September '86

The selector rod itself changed twice on both these dates, from the original part no. to an F and then a G, the spring pin lnegth being incrased 2mm and the backing plate being introduced behind the retainer bracket at the earlier date. The M6 retaining screw length being increased from 144 to 18mm also at the earlier date.

The retainer bracket was updated to a C part no. at the later date too..

Mmm... thats for the rear by the way, hadn't realised there was such a muckstip of parts - they probably found that the vac unit was having trouble always pulling the unit ooff or pushing it on when everything wasn't perfect (just my guess, your mileage may vary...)

The Front Diff difflock parts changed a bit at Frame number
24-G-06-000

The selector shaft going to an F and a small sealing washer on it, being reduced in size (not the O-ring on the bush)

so it never got the late rear selector shaft G part. Always seems to use the spacer plate..., but that may not be the actual facts of the case.

The Bush always seems to a B part no all years and front an back

So. the bracket is deeper too to accomodate the longer shaft - its clearer now. Also the covering boot must be longer too as the one I got from cj last year is too small. I'll get a bit of suitable rubber pipe and split it so I dont have to take the actuator off again.
Ray
2.1 dj syncro
#0094

The brackets seem all to be the same, but maybe the doubler plate/ backing plate is the optional bit..

Yes, think 1/2" bore thick rubber hose spplit is just fine, full of grease and a couple of cable ties or hoseclips

Hi all

Just to be clear...........(as mud)

Both my diff-locks aren't working......

God knows when they were used last......(pre owner didn't know what a syncro was)

There is air pressure

Tried engaging in mud.....nothing

Is the next step a question of removing the 7mm bolts, spraying piston with TT, pulling the piston out a bit, more TT, then re-assemble and hope it starts working

I've had a look at D Hell's guide & photos on wiki

Nah, you need the actuators off completely and the cages they go in and the indicator light switches.

THEN you need to start with the releasing fluid.

Give it about 7 days worth of treatment and then start with the slidehammer.

Should free up pretty easy after that.

As with anything round that's stuck, getting it rotating a bit first frees it up much easier than trying to pull it out, hence taking the tell-tale indicator switch out is essential. Won't rotate a lot though, try a 3mm hex key through the roll-pin hole to see if you can free it up easily first, but clonking it around too much.. Penetrating oil in the tell-light hole, if its badly corroded in there, keep washing it through with pen oil

What they said.

But note the actuating rod slides in an alloy sleeve, and when you start working on the rod, it may stay stuck in the sleeve which moves instead. You can reduce this effect by keeping the spacer plate bolted on and the circlip in place after you've stripped off the main bracket.

I don't believe the rod itself can rotate, as on the other end is the selector fork.

karl,bring it up to me if you need guidance,simple job cheers cj.

What Andy said, especially the bit about the shaft rotating.

Karl, if you're coming to Coney, or passing mine at any point you're welcome to borrow the slidehammer and I also have a 'box on the floor so you can see exactly what you're trying to do.

Cheers

You're all Gentlemen

You're all Gentlemen

Well, let's not carried away, eh?