Club 80-90 Forums

Grun wrote:......... to notify Wasserleaker drivers that their engines have just expired........... yet again. :

Just twist the knife a little bit more Mike

The only thing I know about these vans is what i've found out in the last 2 days, so your basically saying either the buzzer works and my engine is fecked, or my buzzer's fecked and my engines fine?
It drove 80 odd miles back from leeds with no problems except for that damned buzzer going off, no leaks, no overheating, starts on the button.
It might be something the T25 'scene' know all about but its all new to me.

Matt The Hat wrote:It might be something the T25 'scene' know all about but its all new to me.

As it was to any new owner.. it's not a secret.. it's in the haynes.
the buzzer informes the driver his oil pressure is lower than VW expect. Resulting in engine damage should it be ignored
or
there's a wiring fault
the switch is buggered.

ah right, cheers.

I am having exactly the very same buzzer of doom problem after i thought Steve at Gasure had fixed it..and now its back..and drving me mad..

I also want to fit a oil pressure gauge and a oil temp gauge but cant find a sender to fit with the VDO gauges..can anyone tell me where to buy them????plzzzzz?????

ok, i've isolated the problem to some dodgy bit of loom, but also found out the previous owner put a blow off switch in place of the pressure switch. Can anyone tell me the correct colour/presure switch I need for the 1.7D? pleeeeese

Matt The Hat wrote:ok, i've isolated the problem to some dodgy bit of loom, but also found out the previous owner put a blow off switch in place of the pressure switch. Can anyone tell me the correct colour/presure switch I need for the 1.7D? pleeeeese

Matt The Hat,
I have no diesel experience, but Vagcat lists the following............

(2A) 068919081
oil pressure switch
1,4BAR M10X1 1 pin black / DIESEL

(2A) 068919081A
oil pressure switch
0,9BAR M10X1 1 pin grey / T-DIESEL
3 N 0138115

seal
A10X13,5 /

BASIC GERMAN PRICELIST
part number 068919081
Partnumber Title Price
068919081 SCHALTER 8.15 Euro



The 1.4Bar must be the high pressure switch that operates the buzzer, and a double check is that it will be open circuit with no pressure, unlike the low pressure switch which is contacts closed with no pressure applied.

Hope this may help until a knowledgeable diesel addict comes along.
Mike

Thanks, thats all I need to know!

I am confused Grun the manual for the diesel engines say these engines are fitted with a second oil pressure switch.The so called 0.9 bar oil pressure switch if the oil pressure dops below 2.0bar (28.5psi)and the engine speed is kept above 2000rpm for more than one second the contacts of the 0.9 bar switch open and the oil pressure warning light comes & buzzer.The 0.3bar oil pressure switch indicates when the oil pressure drops below 0.15-0.45bar(aprox 4.5psi and lights up the warning light.Hence the low warning pressure senser is black & the high pressure senser is grey as listed with GSFcarparts.I am not trying to contradict the VAgcat listing you kindly provided as i may be wrong.But when i removed the instrument pod to inspect the flexi circuit the muilt pin connector strip is stamped with a tiny mark on pin 12 connection 0..3bar which would be the low oil pressure connection and there is a mark stamped 0.9bar for 13 high pressure oil .Hopefully some one can come along to clarify.

I think the markings on the PCB will be common to diesel and petrol engined versions, and I believe that VW altered the pressure at which the two switches operate over the years as in service experience built up, but they would not have changed the PCB markings.
The VAGCAT site lists the high and low pressure switches
1980 068919081 1.4 bar black diesel
068919081A 0.9 bar grey diesel
1984 same
1985 same
1990 068919081 1.4 bar black /CS,KY,JX
068919081A 0.9 bar grey /CS,KY,JX

GSF....... some of their switches seem to be marked 98> isn't that 1998 onwards?
The important thing is that the high and low pressure switches operate in the opposite sense, if you fit the wrong one to the high pressure position you'll get the buzzer problem when running. The higher the pressure they are set at the more warning (read trouble) you will get.
In my view the high pressure switch and the buzzer have only nuisance value. Laurie Pettitt who rebuilds the petrol engines has similar views.
Mike

You know what? I think i'm just gonna leave it disconnected If ive got low oil pressure i'l be in a mess regardless of lights and buzzers, as long as I keep on top of it, it'l be reeet.

Reading through your last post Mike i would be in agreement as you said service experiance built up and the nuisance value .Regarding my current problem as unable to get the high pressure buzzer circuit to work.I obtained a replacement alternator with a W spade connection for the rev counter or dop board for the buzzer from a ebayer close to my home adddress wich saved the time & postage.It was discribed as from a petrol engine fitted no problems pulleys line up and gives a good charge But i carnt get a reading of the w spade on the muiltimeter Dave friday said he used the DC scale and was able to read off volts increasing with engine revs.I will go through the topics see if i can find anything.

Guys,
Here are acouple of previous posts on the subject which may be of interest.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=36815" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Laurie wrote » Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:57 pm

No. 90% of oil light and buzzer problems are due to the fact that it was a stupid design.

If the buzzer goes off, stop the engine and re-start it. If the oil light goes out and stays out on tickover, you probably have enough oil pressure.

Also, if your tappets are reasonably quiet, that also proves that you have oil pressure.

There are 2 wires to the negative side of the coil. Disconnect the thinner one and drive.

Honestly! I have stripped and rebuilt engines because of the buzzer, under warranty and found, on stripping them nothing whatsoever wrong with them.

So. If the light stays out on tickover, the problem is the buzzer, not the engine.Laurie Pettitt-Engines.

07824514205

Camper.......... my Haynes Electrical Manual says 'There is also a phase terminal giving 7 to 8 volts output (marked W on Lucas and Bosch machines) which may be used for a choke control application or for a tachometer' No further information on if AC or DC output.

Mike

Grun thanks for the reply information .I measured the W connection using the DC scale 0-20 V and the AC scale result was 0 volts with engine revs .Charging volts for the batt is 14.5 volts i am suspecting its a W connection fault on the alternator.I am considering going back to the oil pressure gauge & sendor as an alternative .Thanks for your helpfull replies .

camper wrote:I am confused Grun the manual for the diesel engines say these engines are fitted with a second oil pressure switch.The so called 0.9 bar oil pressure switch if the oil pressure dops below 2.0bar (28.5psi)and the engine speed is kept above 2000rpm for more than one second the contacts of the 0.9 bar switch open and the oil pressure warning light comes & buzzer.The 0.3bar oil pressure switch indicates when the oil pressure drops below 0.15-0.45bar(aprox 4.5psi and lights up the warning light.Hence the low warning pressure senser is black & the high pressure senser is grey as listed with GSFcarparts.I am not trying to contradict the VAgcat listing you kindly provided as i may be wrong.But when i removed the instrument pod to inspect the flexi circuit the muilt pin connector strip is stamped with a tiny mark on pin 12 connection 0..3bar which would be the low oil pressure connection and there is a mark stamped 0.9bar for 13 high pressure oil .Hopefully some one can come along to clarify.

I've received the following from Steve at Gasure.

Look towards the front left hand side of the engine and there is a twin connector with a brown and yellow wire, the yellow wire is the high pressure side that sets off the BOD, earth this out and it should stop. If its a wiring fault then another test is look at the negative side of the coil, there are 3 green wires, there is one that goes to a yellow connector, this is the 2000rpm sensor for the dashboard, disconnect this and the BOD should not go off and you will be back to a standard light only.