Club 80-90 Forums

whichever way you decide to do it, remember that if you have a empty system you need to make sure the heater is on HOT when you fill it.
Many peeps have bled then realised the heater wasnt switched on and the air was not pushed out of it by the coolant.

the bleed screw on the early system in the engine bay is in the small rubber pipes comming off the top large rad pipe where it joins onto the carb bound metal pipe on the LHS front of the engine. Some are missing these days due to failure and non replacement, so you maynot even have one.

Hi there - i'm new to this T25 ownership and my 1983 1.9 water cooled (DG engine I believe) hi top Westy is in the garage with a little local mech in Watford. He's replacing the engine with a Vege recon and as he's done it a few bits and bobs have needed changing. One thing that he's phoned me up with was the expansion bottle (a bayonet fixed one apprently and not the screw top variety sold all over the place). That had broken but before we could source another he's managed to fix it somehow. He's now called abut a couple of hoses that hold the bleeding nipples as these need replacing as well as can't get valves open. The bayonet expansion bottle is on early T25's so guessing the same for these hoses and valves. Anyone have any ideas of a breakers or retailers that may sell em??? Haven't got part number to guide the retailers. Any help is appreciated...

Hi Mocki - if you've got an early one as you've mentioned and the bleed valves have seized then how do you bleed the system?

stuey69 wrote:Hi Mocki - if you've got an early one as you've mentioned and the bleed valves have seized then how do you bleed the system?

With bleeding difficulty

Why worry, if you get a 'result' from the main bleed point at the top of the radiator, and it runs without obvious cooling problems...... relax and enjoy using it.

Mike

Hi guys....
I see lots of posts about antifreeze and lots of OPINIONS about the type that should be used (especially when we talk about the wasserboxer engine)
I stumbled across this on the Bluecol website which I believe 'de-mistifies' much of the opinion and heresay especially about using VW's own G12+ (although it doesn't directly mention this product) it clarifies much of the product technology and use.

http://www.bluecol.co.uk/index.cfm?page=75" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Martin

After fitting new plastic pipes I refilled with coolant as per various forum advices. I read that some vans do not have an engine bay bleed screw, this includes mine. The coolant level kept dropping despite no leaks and I was getting worried as to what on earth was happening. With topping up after several tests of about 10 miles and 2 x 20 miles and a final 20 mile motorway blast last night I think and hope it has now stabilised on the MAX mark but it has taken over 100 miles in total to get to this point. Chasing the air bubbles I suppose.Fingers crossed

Cheers for advice Mocki. Relayed message o mechanic but seems as if the lummox has snapped off a bleed valve trying to free up! Really want to find a second hand replacement so if anyone hears of one then please please please lemme know ASAP!

The issue with him doing it via the rad is that he's concerned that while doing this the newly replaced recon engine will overheat and that's my warranty down the shoot.

If anyone hears or knows of breakers then please feel free to fire through to me. I need to find and early hose with the bleed valves on (i think it's a 2 into 1 pipe) - sheesh!

Cheers fellow 80-90'ers...