Club 80-90 Forums

A quick update, due to the gearbox now becoming noisy i'm pushing this along now, Progress so far:-



Block before prep work.

The part from RJES ready and waiting

Subaru parts and Empi exshaust which i hope to use, again all waiting,

Painting in progress

More painting

Reversed coolant manifold painted and ready

Block painted and new cam belt fitted
Started to fit out block now will post pictures soon, also started the electrics! Cables everywhere.

Another update,

New sump fitted as old one was leaking, not shorten as bus rides at standard height. new oil filter

Rear view Clutch plate and spring plate yet to be fitted.

Front view Alternator still to be tidied and bracket fitted.

Side view

Cabling have started to spilt the loom, looks bad but by hanging up and following Haynes manual diagram shouldn't be to bad. ( here's Hoping!)

One thing i forgot to mention, The reverse manifold by RJES is great but don't get caught out if trying to do one of these in a weekend, The fuel pipes have to be bend to miss (on this 2.2 anyway), and the cabling to the temperature sensor has to be extended as do the water coolant take off to the idle valve, not a big job and is stated on RJES web site, but knowing how little things can catch you out on a weekend when suppliers are shut, so be prepared.

great thread this Chris, nice to see the wrinkles

Well progressing with wiring but have hit a few issues, if anyone can help would be great, problems as follows:-

1) I have a black module thing which i can't identify was fixed to the inside of the off wing and has the following written on it 26740AA040 Nippon ABS Ltd, Don't drop, advance direction. Its not link to the ecu but has two cables Yellow and blue which go to a black connector which is linked to the ECU plugs ( Test plug, data link) here's a picture.



2) The 4 cables which when to the radiator fan's/ AC i have founded but not sure how to link into the bus, i have twin fan setup at present and the ecu will give two earth switch supplies to relay one and two for the main fans and i take it i leave the air conditioner relay and evaporation thermos switch disconnected ?

3) Then i have 5 cables which when from the ecu to the dash/pedals. again the Haynes wiring diagram is a little woolly but i think i have Malfunction lamp(check engine) red/green, Tachometer Black and blue, Speed sensor cable Green/Black,neutral switch light green/ black and clutch switch Red/Yellow. know what to do with all but the last two?

4) Oil pressure switch new engine only has one so do i link the T25 twin warning to the one switch or just earth out the buzzer of doom?

5) The oxygen sensor diagram shows two but mine only seems to have one ( unless i cut the 2ND one out but didn't see it in the exhaust) i looking to use a two use a twin exhaust system with no linked pipes from one side to the other, can i install the sensor in one side only?

Picture of the loom so far and the ecu board and relays and fuse carrier which I'm fitting in a side cupboard in the camper on the rear off side just before the wardrobe.

Found the first one, it's a G Meter for the ABS which does link the the Data link connector and the Diagnosis connector. so can i just cut these out or do i need to earth them down?

Well i think i have sorted all the issues, i have founded after a little help and time surfing a wiring diagram with PIN OUT details for the ECU i have, i found lots but after starting founded they didn't match mine. here a a few link if you are after a wiring diagram. and i have also added photo's Quality not great ( copied from another site) of the one i have used.
http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://osp.metrohosting.info/wiringgallerysubaru.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/pinouts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=2300" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here's Mine



Also been passed this link for the oil pressure switch issue which i plan to investigate
http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Click on "Suby Engine -1" tab then click "Oil Press Sender" tab - everything you wanna know about Scooby into a T3

Here are a few pictures of the loom now near to completion, i will try when i get time to do a line diagram detailing the cables needed to connect into the T25, colours and pin numbers may be different but for a guide it may be of use. This as been hard work on the research side, i have spent longer on the computer and looking at wiring diagrams than doing the work. But once you have the Pin out drawing and know where every thing is going and coming from its not hard. I ended up taking over the Dinning room so i could jump on the computer and lay out diagrams, which is not easy in the Garage. Upset the wife for a few days but was a lot easier that way. anyway here's the loom so far.

These are the cables for the fuel pump + feed, and malfunction light, Rev Counter, Switch earth for speed two rad fan relay (number 5 in fuse box) and fan speed 1 feed in and feed out. All running to the front end.

This is the ECU mounted on the board, Note i have run all earths to a single point and earth the case of the ECU run a 10mm earth cable to the connect onto the chassis some where, also note the Three ecu plugs Check Connector, OBD II connector and Data link, also the Test Mode single plug all located under the fuse box so can be connected too. The block of terminals are for the Neutral switch and a cable which went to the OBD II check connector, then an earth and a switch supply (IE hot start and run) i can then fit links to earth or feed either one at a later date.

The cables here are all engine bay, the big bunch are to the inlet manifold, the small close one is the Ignition Module and the longest one the Air Mass sensor, the loose ones are for connection into the Black junction box on the T25. I have run some which i will not use but are there for a later date if needed, IE A/C Relay and A/C Evaporator both switched earths from the ECU. Then there is the Subaru Temperature gauge sensor again not needed at present. Then the ones to connect, The Oil switch, the switch supply (hot start and run). The large cables coiled hanging off the table are for the starter motor Trig supply to ECU and Permanent 12v supply and earth cable.

Well I'm near to the engine change day, i have installed the loom and run all cables to the correct positions, Installed the VSS sensor to the speedo altered the cabling for the Doom buzzer light IE disconnected the Green cable from the dash console but left connected to the Rev counter. Installed the ecu warning lamp. Installed the fuel pump Fuel filter and new Copper 8mm pipes from the fitter to the engine bay. Just the throttle cable and a few painting jobs and clutch and spigot bearing to do to the engine and I'm ready. The exhaust is being done for me by a local VW garage ( Dub Monkeys) made from a Jig which i made. A few photo's to help see what i have been up to.

The ECU mounted in the rear cupboard next to the Wardrobe.

Main loom run in the rear base of the wardrobe through a 50mm hole on floor to engine bay.

Cable loom in engine bay just tie wrapped up ready for clipping at a later date.

Cable run to the front in PVC CONDUIT with fuel pump supply ready.

Cable above fuel tank and spare wheel.

Cable turn next to rad fan supply and up behind front grill to behind the fuse box and enter existing grommet to cab.

Fuel Pump and filter with copper pipes.

Copper Return pipe ready to connect to existing return outlet on the latter Carb T25 like mine.#

Really interesting! I want to update my early EJ22 engined bus with a later loom and management, to get away from the seemingly unobtainable early MAF sensor and TSR "modded" loom so I've got a manual '97 Legacy waiting in the wings. I'll be doing my own loom if I can. Anything to watch out for when taking the dash out?

The way i attacked it was to remove the complete loom label everything even stuff you don't need, i labelled all in the engine bay and front wings to the front radiator but left the cables going to the rear of the car. I then laid it out and stripped all the conduit and tape and temporary taped it to keep the shape. Then working away from the ecu started removing cables i could see had no connection to the ecu. This left a few that were linked to the ABS which i didn't need and a few to the dash connector. Then using the PIN Out drawing i Identified each of the cables that went to the old dash and plugs and labelled. The only way to check you have the correct drawing is by tracing known cables first IE ones to inlet manifold etc, when you are shore the pin out drawing is correct start to Identify the unknown ones. Then measured approx positions and extended or lost extra cable in loom and temporary taped. Then spiral wrapped completed loom. The bulk of the cables go to the inlet manifold and these i could leave well alone, only two cables the Oil Pressure sensor and temperature sensor for the Subaru Gauge came from the inlet manifold which didn't go to the ECU but i still needed.
This all sound easy but it took a lot of time and researching on the computer.
Also yours like mine may still be OBD1 and not as i first thought OBD2 as this came to the UK after 2000 for full compliance so make shore you keep the black test mode connectors (Two) and the the two green ones read memory connectors. I cut one out at first and had to dig it out of the mass of cables left and reconnect it. for guidance the OBD2 test plug is 16 pin and has angled sides to the plug. The grey plug in mine is only 14 pins and is square.
Good luck

Well the engine is in and running, To say it was hard work would be an understatement, i had 3 1/2 days of 5am starts and late finishes with a trip to casualty on day one as i got white spirits in my ear and got a chemical burn so now i can only hear as if I'm under water and have a constant ringing. also the exhaust was a nightmare!!. anyway to split of this its done. I will post posting to replay the the events in days, so here is Day one:-

The exhaust jig which i made for the local contact to weld, this was the start of the problems the contact had this for a week and when i chased on Tuesday the day before the night i was planning to drop the engine, they said they wouldn't have time to do this before Friday, so i call RJES to see if i could buy his exhaust to find he had no stock, so contact another local welder who stated yes and to drop it around, so Wednesday on the way home from work i collect jig to drop to local welder on Day one Thursday. more on this later.

Thursday morning worked Wednesday night to remove old engine, engine bay not holding any nasty surprises, a little surface rust but no holes.

Old engine soon to be on EBay, 103K miles full service history and fill with correct coolant only issue burns oil on over run through valve guilds.

Engine bay cleaned and rust treated ready for paint, note rear plate trimmed with grinder to allow more room for new bell housing.

New bell housing installed, not hard once the old clutch release arm was removed, that was not easy, also didn't have a installation CD in my pack so had to run through the whole job with Richard from RJES on the phone which he kindly spend 40 mins running through and sending me two pictures via E Mail to help, Thanks Richard.
Well end of day one had a night off Thursday ready to finishing painting and under sealing and installing engine.

This is now Day Two Friday.
Had to get some Gearbox oil and a few bits and drop wife to work so started at 5am and finish at 8.45am collect bits and popped into welder to see how he was getting on after i had dropped it to him on Thursday. he hadn't started it and stated he had no chance of getting it done that night. so i took it home again spend the whole morning till 12 noon cutting and shaping pipes and cleaning all ends ready to weld ( i don't weld) took it back and he said no promises but he would see what he could do. Stress levels now are high as bus is in bits a point of no return and it's a bank holiday weekend with the wife wanting transport on Tuesday!.

Engine Bay painted also no picture but under sealed rear chassis legs and back of plates

Coolant bottle bracket installed and pipe work ready for engine.

all cables connected in junction box, i used the Subaru temperature sensor in the coolant rail in the end and fitted a variable resistor to correct the signal for the VW gauge. i used Din Rail connectors in here so can alter at a later date if needed. also connect the starter motor with the cables to the ECU and extended the VW alternator cables and the coolant level switch for the expansion bottle.

Ignition module was installed high up to the hatch near the expansion bottle to provide a little protection from the elements.

Had the phone call at 6.30pm on Friday to say the exhaust was ready, so quick trip and paid the £60.00 and collect the above.

Rear box painted ready to fit the following day.

Pipes also painted ready for engine install day.
End of day 2

Day Three Engine install day!
5 am start

Don't forget to install the VW spigot bearing or the gearbox will not fit, this came as part of the RJES bell housing.

Note the metal spring spacer supplied to be installed first to move the bearing to the fly wheel face so the shaft is fully supported.

New Subaru pressure plate and VW clutch were installed next.

Engine on its way i fitted the cross member ready.

Next fitted the pipes and made to supports from the top of the engine from the old silencer brackets and some flat bar twisted.

Pipes installed and engine bolted into position.

Tail pipes installed. this part was the next nightmare, i got the jig measurement out not by allot but enough to hit the rear valance and tow bar. this meant cutting with an angle grinder and 5 fits later now 3.30pm the exhaust was installed looked good but alot of time spent. if i did this again i would purchase the RJES exhaust at £590 sound alot but the hours i spend and messing around it would have been worth every penny.

Next connection of electrics to engine ( just plugs by this stage) and water connections, the "by pass" supplied by RJES was just a little to small bore for my pipes and kept leaking so i had to add some PTFE tape and sealant to seal, no hardship just note you may have the same problem and put water only in to start with to save your antifreeze.
That was the end of Day three day four engine starting day.

Day Four Sunday 2ND May 2010. engine start day. just a few jobs to do, fit the new RJES accelerator cable not hard but took 2 hrs, then change the radiator pipes as i had connected the top and bottom pipes the wrong way round, didn't think it mattered bas both go to the bottom of the rad but on reading RJES site and Just kampers tech section it turn out i had them the wrong way around. so as i had cut the engine pipes and fitted the systems i changed them over at the front end above the spare wheel, had to extend one and shorten the other. again not hard but more time.

Next job connect the air intake. ended up cutting a hole in the back plate to help this fit its very tight. and then had to repaint the hole again.

Also cut off a unused take off pipe to the inlet pipe and blanked with the end by super gluing and self amalgamating tape again to aid the installation.

Then altered the air box to help remove the box for filter changes.

Then cut the support legs off and refitted to a position to support box into near side air duct in bus

Air intake installed.
Then gearbox oil installed oil installed the final connection to the Radiator fans and malfunction light,Prime all fuel remove supply to coil and turned engine over 20 times to prime oil. then fire.
I have made a video of this part. sorry about the hat, i used two other this day and ran out so my daughter offered me this one as she said she never wore it, well that my story anyway .

Hope this has been some use to someone, this was hard work and cost a few Pound but after a quick drive you can see that this is a great conversion and we hope this will give us many years of hassle free motoring.