Club 80-90 Forums

£90 fitted was the best found local to me.
They even put my old macho's on to another set of Merc steels that i had laying around so i could sell them on. All balanced an all.

M&M tyres, Marsh Barton, Exeter
M&M

HarryMann wrote:Ah sorry SANDMAN, didn't read back up enough, good to know they can be got for about £80 fitted, been making enquiries and not found that deal yet...

No worries - just glad i did'nt get stitched up for once- Paul Jarrol tyres - Monmouth.

Back to the brake drum locating screws...I fitted my Mefros last year (from Henning via Syncropaddy) and overlooked these screws .I drove around for a week and didn't spot anything until some bloke overtaking waved wildly at me-I of course thought he was taking the proverbial and gesticulated back in my own manner.
I then took a long hard look in the mirror and saw what he meant.Checked Wiki to make sure wheel nuts were tightened correctly and tried again.No good.Wheel bearings seemed good and anyway,why would both fail at the same time.Took some time for the penny to drop.
Thankfully no harm done .Oddly enough the Doka handled fine even with the wobbly wheels!!

The clue is that the nuts don't all go on the same amount, and when you tighten them up they don't feel right at all, the torque doesn't come up quickly enough, or at all.

Will put this warning in the Wiki.

HarryMann wrote:The clue is that the nuts don't all go on the same amount, and when you tighten them up they don't feel right at all, the torque doesn't come up quickly enough, or at all.

Will put this warning in the Wiki.

I,m glad i asked this quetion now , possibly save some one a big crunch or worse !! That is how i spotted it , the fact that three nuts looked like they were on but two did'nt the lad fitting them did not spot it either .

This would do more harm with alloy wheels methinks, although the retaining set-screws may crush into the alloy, saving the day...

I have a set of Audi alloys that I use, which came with 3 of them cut-out in the screw positions... I have to be careful to make sure two of those 3 (other's a spare that will fit both back and front) go on the back AND are oriented correctly. Or, remove those little set screws

There is also a problem sometimes with the central bore for the hub nuts, if they haven't also been clearanced the wheel could in theory be forced on doing damage... the worry is that partial shear failure of the metal behind the nut recess could aoccur.

Always expect the nuts to pull up gradually and much the same as one another...

I stress everywhere I write about doing multiple bolted components up to always first nip everything up gradually, going from bolt to bolt... it takes a little longer, but torqueing up is always the last thing to do when you are sure everything is OK, and the component sitting flush..

UYEs - Use Your Eyes; Use Your Ears

UYSS - Use Your Sixth Sense (that things are not quite right)

HarryMann wrote:This would do more harm with alloy wheels methinks, although the retaining set-screws may crush into the alloy, saving the day...

I have a set of Audi alloys that I use, which came with 3 of them cut-out in the screw positions... I have to be careful to make sure two of those 3 (other's a spare that will fit both back and front) go on the back AND are oriented correctly. Or, remove those little set screws

There is also a problem sometimes with the central bore for the hub nuts, if they haven't also been clearanced the wheel could in theory be forced on doing damage... the worry is that partial shear failure of the metal behind the nut recess could aoccur.

Always expect the nuts to pull up gradually and much the same as one another...

I stress everywhere I write about doing multiple bolted components up to always first nip everything up gradually, going from bolt to bolt... it takes a little longer, but torqueing up is always the last thing to do when you are sure everything is OK, and the component sitting flush..

UYEs - Use Your Eyes; Use Your Ears

UYSS - Use Your Sixth Sense (that things are not quite right)

You know something Harrymann that UYSS you talk about is a very powerfull tool- Wish i had listend to it when i booked my Syncro into a Spray shop that had done work for me before brilliantly - they have expanded recently - the job they did is probubly the worst panel work ever known to man- Still thats another story.

Cheers Si, that's a good price.

Are they copper-nickel-chrome on the steel by any chance ? I tried a cheap set of chrome nuts once and found the chrome flaked off the steel almost straight away.

Those are the same nuts we use,supply at pretty much same price.
Not the best quality for winter but at 80p a pop you cant complain.
The salt dose get them a bit.
Russel

I have recently updated the Wiki on Steering and suspension alignment settings... but sure there will be more to add, or amend or be said

Syncro suspension alignment

2WD suspension alignment

Can anyone recommend a good quality locking nut that can take the muck they are likely to receive off-road in all weathers?

The McGard ones I sell are well strong, we used to have a master set at Nissan when I worked there, only 10 keys that fitted all the Nissan models, we used them on the gun day in day out and never broke one.
They we're also OEM to VW too.
Good strong locking nuts, the radiused ones come with a plastic cover too, but the worst bit is that the are to suit the VW ball radius and not the merc one.
They will work, just not quite as they should, but they are over £10 cheaper than they should be!

Radius suitable for Mefros Simon, that Andy says are 12mm balll, not 14?

Will have 4 if so, cheers. Hadn't seen them on your website.

Merc is 12mm, VW etc 14mm, the ones I sell suit the 14mm radius.
i.e, not suitable for merc fitment, but would work at a stretch.
TBH, the nuts you are supplied are a bit of an oddball anyway, the radius is to usually suit vehicle with a 12mm thread, not 14mm.