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Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 17:35
by ringo
Im going the immobiliser way - just because it arms itself after 30 seconds - saves me (or the lovely wife) forgetting to turn a switch thats hard to get to - so in turn wont be turned when it should be.

Im actually fitting it myself - my insurance hasnt asked and also, these things are prone to go wrong some times and i want to be able to disarm it myself.

Cost me £30 on fleabay....

Ringo

Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 17:46
by Cruz
I'm purchasing a toad thatcham 2 immobiliser too but was looking at the above as an additional deterrent

Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 19:31
by Westy.Club.Joker
Toad 606i- recommended. Discrete battery / ignition isolator switch - recommended.

Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 20:04
by 4gearwonder
Cruz,

Think as well as all some of the good suggestions here, you should also fit a well visable steering wheel lock too.

Having an elebrate system of course is all well and good hopefully in keeping your wheels, but if it's not obvious from the outside that it has one, then you may still end up with forced entry.

At least with a visable steering/crooklock, they might think twice that it won't be that easy? :roll:

Basically have both if you can! :wink:
Cheers.

Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 21:26
by Cruz
I've always had a crook lock on.

Certainly food for thought, though I'll need to save some pennies for the Toad alarm

Posted: 14 Oct 2008, 21:56
by Willoughby
Selca Immobilisers are good kit.

90% of immobilisers claim to be Thatcham category 2 but in reality are only cat 2 if fitted by a Thatcham approved agent. There are rules like where the unit is situated and how many panels you need to remove to get at the unit. Also what circuits are imobilised and where in the circuit the break is made and how the joins are made.

K

Posted: 15 Oct 2008, 08:39
by ringo
I was thinking of putting mine in the engine bay - but i suppose i could put it under the rock and roll bed.....

Will try and do it this weekend...

Ringo