I've gone for the lazy aproch with LED's though I suspect its alot more expencive and bought stuff from ultra LED's. Plus side is if its faulty its easy to replace or substitute though it shouldn't need to. Downside apart from cost is I think alot of the aftermarket LED units don't perform well in all houseings so buy with caution.
Tail lights, they are single 1W white 382 LED units, claim to be 10w* equivilent and I'd say thats pritty accurate as I ran one with a 10w filiment on the other side for a while and it was hard to tell. I sometimes park on the side of conntry lanes at night so quite like using the parking lights, each side now draws 5w instead of 14w so thats pritty handy - I'd recomend it for the T3.
* The tail lights on a T3 are ment to be 10w not 5w, based on the fact they aren't that bright anyway and have the reflector infront you need more power than usual to make them visable. If yours are dim maybe someone fitted5w bulbs when the originals blew? I've followed a T3 in spray on the motorway and the lights became invisable very quickly!
Brakes I've not yet bothered with, indicators I might do at some time soon.
Plate lights and front sidelights I would do if I could find some that aren't blueywhite - don't really like it looking too modified. What I'd like would be a warmer white LED (see intereour bit). One thin ultraleds mention though is fitting LEDs near the headlamp bulbs, they only claim it should be done with the powerful one made of metal (the LED itself is heat resistant as powerful LEDs get very hot as standard so being next to a 60w halogen wouldn't bother them (thats a point, if you have 120w bulbs fitted they'll melt even easyer).
Intereour, got a warm white festoon in the rear intereour light, its great - very simular to the original filiment bulb. Got the cool white type in my landy and they are no way as good. Again power has gone down from 11w each to 1w each so if you have a caravelle with 3 or 4 11w intereour lights this conversion can make leaving the slider open alot less anoying! Again another thing I'd recomend and its a hard mod to spot if you wern't told it was there.
Dash, not done it yet, want to. Problem is I want the dimmer to still work and can't quite work out how to sort that. Maybe if all the dash backlighting was converted it'll be fine but replacing the tiny screw in bulb on the difflock control panel could be tricky to LED - might just stop it diming.
Legal stuff. Its alright to have white lights in the rear plate lamp (obveously) and its not a legal issue if its slightly noticeable directly from the rear - if your fitting really bright bulbs that reflect off things enough to dazzel they are to bright anyway (though checking the oil will be easyer
). For rear lights the stop and tail lamps have to have a noticeable difference in brightness. Most manufactors seem to use 5/21 if they are in the same lens or 10 and 21 if they are seperate - seems sensable to stick to this. Fog lamps and brake lamps must be more than 100mm apart, I suspect by massive coincidence the tail light lens on a T3 is about that width. Fog lights and or brake lights can also light dimly to do tail light duitys as long as they are in pairs (T5's have a pair of tail lights, one of which gets brighter to become a fog).
When picking LEDs to use through coloured lenses its best to use the same colour as the lenses rather than a white LED (I know I used white and its fine but bare with me), unlike a bulb that omits all types of light white LEDs dont (which is why they often look blue). A red LED through a red lens filters nothing, a white one through a red lens filters everything not red which could be alot less from an LED than a simularly bright looking white filiment.
Wireing LEDs in parallel shouldn't be done unless each one has its own resistor with it, if you run one resistor and then LEDs in parallel after that they will one by one fail. Each parallel LED with its own resistor is fine but inificent, a better way is to have a group of LEDs wired in series and one resistor to limit the current through them all. I surpose you could have a resistor to light them at full power for brakeing and a bigger resistor for dimmed tail operation? Think thats how the aftermarket stuff works if it doesn't use a driver.
If theres interest I might take some pictures of my lights after dark?
