Club 80-90 Forums

oldiguana wrote:arv been a welder for 18 years,but im still crappin mesen about ripping the widows out n doin the weldin round um,very scary when its going to be on show!!!

Heh! Thing is that most professional welders don't work with thin car body steel, and that's a whole technique in itself.

If you set the mig to the setting that seems to work, you don't tend to get enough penetration - I go one setting higher then "pulse" the mig, which does give a good strong weld.

I've done lots of good invisible welding work on classic cars that way. I started by butt-welding patches in the floor of my Austin A40 - not necessary for floor patches I know, but the practice was invaluable and by the time I got to the wings my patches only needed the barest scrape of filler. And my car won show prizes...

bloody hell,i thought you said it was rusty??,i dare'nt post any pictures of marladys van now till its done,or i might have the serious cliche' squad after me......i dont know what youve been worrying about owduck,all four windows have got to come out on ours and complete new full length sections have got to be welded in,plus a crap load round the windscreen...nar thats rusty!!!!.at the end of the day owduck,if you make a "cock" up you can always grind it out and have another go.........

Also might be an idea to get a mig welding tutorial dvd. Very cheap from ebay. Bought one myself as I too know sod all about welding and want to learn http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trks ... elding+dvd

I've recently been looking at this website http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

best of luck if you decide to do it yourself, but I have always been a trade for the trades people sort of person. but if the van is as bad as you say and you aint got no-one else, then what do have to lose....nnaaaaaaaafffffffffiiiiiiiiiinnnnnn

Okay, I think my biggest problem is fixing the panel around the diesel filler cap and two areas near it

Here is the panel
[Img:375:500]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3077/263 ... e22743.jpg[/img]
Here is the area next to the drivers seatbelt fixing
[img:375:500]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/264 ... b990d7.jpg[/img]

The other is on the back wall of the wheel arch.

My question is, before cutting and welding do I need to remove the fuel filler pipe back to the fuel tank (and remove the expansion tank)? If so can this be done easily without also removing the fuel tank?

Looked at the Wiki, but not sure how dificult it will be.

Any help appreciated.

If so can this be done easily without also removing the fuel tank

Given the amount of grinding and welding your looking at doing in this area I would suggest you remove the fuel tank as sparks+petrol fumes=BOOM!

The fuel tank is not too difficult to remove provided you drain all the fuel out - you will need to remove the expansion tank as this is directly in the area you need to weld if your replacing the wheel arch

I have exactly the same problem with my van and have already removed the petrol tank and expansion tank - the difference it makes in terms of working space is a lot

there's some cheep activated welding masks on ebay they seem up to spec. question has anyone tried them? I borrow my mates one and it's about time I brought my own . especially as it's going home now,

Give it a go!! As said practice makes perfect! I'm a welder by trade

As said, all good advice, get plenty of practice in on some scrap, and doing the joints you will be welding when you do your repairs, also on visible repairs especially, keep the heat as low as possible to maintain decent welds and minimise distortion.

Noise is the key to MIG if it sounds right it is! As said like sizzling bacon is the noise you want hear. Set you voltage then change the wirespeed to suit, if the wire seems to bounce off the work piece then the speed is too high, and if its too slow the sound will be much different, a sort of shooooshing noise?!

also plenty of waxoil or seam sealer to keep the dreaded tin worm at bay depending on where its going to be!

Chris

Hope that helps andgood luck

dugcati wrote:

If so can this be done easily without also removing the fuel tank

Given the amount of grinding and welding your looking at doing in this area I would suggest you remove the fuel tank as sparks+petrol fumes=BOOM!

I agree on removing the petrol tank as I have am petrified of fire having been involved in a few! if you insist on leaving the tank in there are a few hairbrained ways you could attempt to assess/reduce the risk:

1/ Empty the tank so as to present a large volume of explosive mixture if it somehow caught fire. This way it is all over in one foul swoop!
2/ Leave the tank full so as to reduce the risk of explosion but encourage a conflagration should it catch fire although you would have a chance to run away.
3/ Empty the tank and fill it with water while you are welding. This would then be drained and the tank flushed with several litres of Isopropolalcohol (IPA) which is water miscible and when drained should leave the tank ready for petrol - posibly
4/ Empty the tank and leave it for a week or so hoping the fumes will go away - posibly.
5/ Empty the tank and purge it with an inert gas such as nitrogen. Best put the cap back on so as to keep the gas in there while you weld.

Best remove the tank then! Leastways you will be able to replace any dodgy joints/pipes and give those rusty spots some attention. I find hamerite very resistant to petrol but not smoothrite though!
You know it makes sense
Ken

Thanks guys, I do eventually want to take the fuel tank off and check it. Just want to do one thing at a time. Already pooing myself about welding - removing fuel tanks as well, what next? strip down the engine?

...hmmm I do have an oil leak...maybe

Just wish I had a fully equiped garage to work in and a second pair of hands I bet I'm not the only one!

Quick question. I notice some places have cored welding wire. Can this be used without gas?

CovKid wrote:Quick question. I notice some places have cored welding wire. Can this be used without gas?

Yes my bother swore by it (Probably because I wouldn't lend him my brewery bottle unless he promised to refill it) I saw some of his work and it wasn't too bad.
Cheers
Ken

how are you going to go about this task?

I have just reformed the lower wheel arch and again filled around the petrol cap (even to the point of colour coding the filler cap as I have now filled up to the surround), bad I know but it held for two years and now I have black hammerited the lower 8 inches and just used hammerrite on the white above the hammerite, I used no more gaps next to the sliding door a whole massive can and then filled over the top of that and when I did the other side and started poking and pulling I got wire mesh and made the lower rear arch about 4 inches and under the drivers step with mesh too.

I want to "paint my wagon with a roller" but realise fully that I will need to replace several panels rather than bits of panel but rewelding them. although saying that my rust does not appear as bad as yours maybe I am not looking close enough at my own + it appears to have quite a bit of fibreglass bits showing.

good luck with your welding and panel replacements.

Mate, bite the bullet & get shot of all that fibre-glass sh!te............




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Fairly happy with the results. Good to know that there's alittle more metal & abit less rust in the old girl..........
Its hard bloody yakker that's for sure! No wonder most garages don't want to know.


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Yet more to do though..............

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Hey love the inspection hatch for checking tyre treads. No need to get out - just glance down. I want one!