Club 80-90 Forums

Big Tam.
You wrote,

Sorry but you are wrong, they are the exact same fitment as the carat alloys, I have them on my van,

My problem is I just can't see properly at present..(cataract op. tomorrow as it happens]

I have longer studs (front and back) and the nuts are radiused. I have tried to see if the seats in the wheels are radiused, but short of taking a wheel off and trying a tapered nut (which I don't have) it will have to wait until eyesight hopefully improves. Unable to drive so if I have the wrong nuts no problem. I have plenty of nut engagement (about ten full turns).

Apologies if I have misled, but there does seem to be some confusion over stud lengths and nut profiles.

Mike

If you have got radius nuts and bolts fitted i'd suggest fitting the correct taper seated nuts and bolts a.s.a.p because even though as you say you have 10 full turns the nut/bolt is not seated correctly against the alloy so you could potentially lose a wheel at any time.

g60steve wrote:If you have got radius nuts and bolts fitted i'd suggest fitting the correct taper seated nuts and bolts a.s.a.p because even though as you say you have 10 full turns the nut/bolt is not seated correctly against the alloy so you could potentially lose a wheel at any time.

Cheers Steve,
As I said........ not driven now for two years, will get a set of tapers before I am on the road again.... No sweat...... can trim the studs if necessary as the nuts will engage a bit deeper into the wheels no doubt.
Van has not moved since wheels changed. Just resting in garage.
Mike

Just buy open ended nuts Mike if you don't want the hassle of trimming the longer studs.This way if you fancy fitting aftermarket wheels at a later date the longer rear studs are already in place.

g60steve wrote:Just buy open ended nuts Mike if you don't want the hassle of trimming the longer studs.This way if you fancy fitting aftermarket wheels at a later date the longer rear studs are already in place.

Steve good thinking but I am 71 years old, doubt if I will be changing wheels again.
The chromed radiused nuts look so pretty (bulge nuts do you call them?)
But they may come in for the 'Bay' that I have, or else in the 'for sale' forum.
I dont mind sitting quietly with a hacksaw and doing the rear studs, fronts are the screw-in studs and I can get them out and into the vice, with soft jaws of course.
Will get organised when the eye settles down. It is shank's pony at present anyway. Bus service is just two a week from here, one each to the market days in the local towns.

Mike

Thanks for the advice i am starting to come around to the idea that they are correct now, I am going to have a 2nd go at fitting them at the weekend and get a second opinion from my mechanic brother. There are a lot of people that now an awful lot more than me about the t25 so i will give it a go and see what happens. I will probably end up checking them every 10miles for the first week mind. Cheers Steve

VW did not use different studs when fitting either type of Alloy wheel, both the 5 spokes and the bullet holes use the same taper thread and capped nuts so you can't see that they are only on 7 turns, ie 12mm. I have the bullet holes on both my Syncros without longer studs, 40k miles no problems. Just make sure they are torqued up properly, the setting is a lot higher than car wheels and a lot of tyre places don't believe we go that tight but we do....180Nm, 133ftlb, and check them again after 30-70 miles as per HGV

Thanks G60Steve, took the nuts of the brake drum because I was told to...typical, needn't have bothered. Had a look at the rear studs/VW nuts on my carats and, having read the concerns, does look scary. They haven't fell off since I fitted them, the garage that fitted the tyres didn't mention anything and you and Baxter reckon their safe ......I can live with that! If they do fall off.........whats yer address (got Baxters) ?

As long as they are tightened up correctly they won't got anywhere.Like i said earlier...VW fitted them to thousands of T25's.