Club 80-90 Forums

sukhoi27 wrote:deffo right hand thread.you have removed the split pin haven't you....

Lad should've had more turkey methinks

Ian.

yes i removed the split pin and yes should have had more turkey got lumps in me neck now snigger but the little t**t still hasnt moved its beaten and brused but its got more balls than a big box of ball things.

Given up for the day but in the morning its gona get it big style if the beating and the bars dont get it there is no getting away from the grinder never loses

when i done mine i simply used the weight of the van to help by putting a 3/4" drive bar with extension, then i wedged it hard down into the tarmac, then very slowly drove the van it put a bit of a dent in my drive but it un done the nut, which in my eyes was well worth it.

tried all of the above managed to destroy my breaker bar and my drive . Have ordered a new hub nut and the little get is gona get ground off in the morning. I have on its way one of those splatting spanners to refit.

I suggest anyone that has to undo this nut dont even try pay a bloke to do it that looks like Arnie and a mile long breaker bar

You need to be using a three quarter breaker bar and socket too - half inch stuff can and does bend on axle nuts. We have a 'family' one that does the rounds here in Cov when folk badly need one. Nice long pole on that and two beefy blokes will shift it.

j kampers sell the 3/4 in nut n breaker - it's huge... it's massive... etc..

vw heritage spare parts sell - this ratchet contraption -

Mr Torque Tool

New Product!

Multiplies leverage from a normal ratchet. For use on flywheel gland nuts and rear hub nuts. Supplied as a complete kit including drum plate, 6 Volt gear and 12 Volt gear.


Tool,Mr Torque kit
[AC000133] £79.95



£80 squids though!

I set to with the grinder . I ground half way through the nut and it came off YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE . I have a heratage splat hammer to put it back on . Ifanyone local to here needs to do this get in touch and you can borrow it . Thanks for all the advice . Its a great help when your at the end of your rope.

for information -

This is a question that comes up pretty regularly so I thought it would be wise to address it on this page. The question is how to torque large nuts such as the rear axle nut or the flywheel gland nut without having a torque wrench. Accurate torque is important for these nuts, and luckily there is a way to do it without a torque wrench.

First, you need the proper tools. The rear axle nut for the air-cooled cars is 36mm, and for the Buses/vans it is 46mm. The flywheel nut is also 36mm on Type 1 engines. So, the proper tool here is a 6-point 36mm and/or 46mm socket, ideally welded to a 6-foot long piece of cheater pipe (basically a thick, heavy pipe to give the leverage necessary for the task). Bob Hoover has a 6-foot long pipe with a 36mm socket welded to one end and a 46mm socket welded to the other end.

The proper use of the tool can be found through some very simple math. First you need the torque specification for the particular nut. Check your Bentley manual. Let's say for the sake of example that the torque spec for the rear axle nut is 300 foot-pounds. And let's say for the sake of example that you weigh 150 pounds. Well, you simply divide the 300 foot-pounds by the 150 pounds, and that gives you 2 feet. The two feet is the distance from the center of the nut that you will apply force. So go out two feet on your cheater pipe. Make a mark at the 2-foot point and put one hand on either side, right up to the mark. Then push down and keep pushing steadily until your feet clear the floor. Don't jump up and down on it or anything like that. That will give you the proper torque. Then you have to make sure that the hole for the cotter pin is aligned so go tighter if you have to, not looser, whichever is closer, to get the holes lined up and there you are.

Now that you know the mathematical relationship, you can simply substitute the real numbers into the equation for the example numbers above.

I assume that is without any oils or grease on the thread affecting the friction coifficent?

whoops! - not at all sure - it's errr a copy errr from another vw site... thought it might be useful for members here - to be able to work out an approximate...