Club 80-90 Forums

Oren Kipnis wrote: ↑17 Feb 2025, 12:20

Osram and Philips developed replacement LED headlamp bulbs for classic cars, Osram being 2700Kelvin, and Philips 3500.
I tried the Philips LEDs on the Syncro, and it does the job - you see the road. The pattern is perfect and oncoming drivers see the headlamps as if they were fitted with the Halogens.
These are not road legal at the moment, but should be certified sometime during 2025.

 

So....
Do these or their type go straight in or do they need a relay upgrade ??
I did buy a headlight upgrade kit from SHC before Christmas....was very impressed with the quality compared to other's I'd I'd seen....a maate of mine bought one gor his Westie Multivan.....he's already fitted his...he's well chuffed.

Sage words of advice from all area's please

Osram nightbreakers, with the wiring upgrade made a big difference for me.

Stesaw wrote: ↑17 Feb 2025, 21:04 Osram nightbreakers, with the wiring upgrade made a big difference for me.

As above. I have mk2 golf lights with nightbreakers fitted.

Stesaw wrote: ↑17 Feb 2025, 21:04 Osram nightbreakers, with the wiring upgrade made a big difference for me.

Same here.

One odd issue we have though is that with ignition on, first position on the headlight switch brings headlights on full (I don't mean high beam) and selecting second position on the switch changes nothing.

Anyone have any suggestions about why this is happening?

Alfredo wrote: ↑18 Feb 2025, 20:16

Stesaw wrote: ↑17 Feb 2025, 21:04 Osram nightbreakers, with the wiring upgrade made a big difference for me.

Same here.

One odd issue we have though is that with ignition on, first position on the headlight switch brings headlights on full (I don't mean high beam) and selecting second position on the switch changes nothing.

Anyone have any suggestions about why this is happening?

Disconnect the dim-dip resistor 
 

Thanks, how would I do that please?

If I recall take the grill off and look to the passenger side for a tube with some wires coming off it.

cobblers wrote: ↑18 Feb 2025, 20:40

Alfredo wrote: ↑18 Feb 2025, 20:16

Stesaw wrote: ↑17 Feb 2025, 21:04 Osram nightbreakers, with the wiring upgrade made a big difference for me.

Same here.

One odd issue we have though is that with ignition on, first position on the headlight switch brings headlights on full (I don't mean high beam) and selecting second position on the switch changes nothing.

Anyone have any suggestions about why this is happening?

Disconnect the dim-dip resistor 

Stupid British legislation came in around 1986 I think?

Normally the headlamp switch operation would be.

Off - Sidelights - Headlamps.

What dim Dip did, when sidelights were turned on then the power to the headlamps was fed through a resistor (behind the headlamp on a T3) and you had your side lights on, dim dip too, headlamps illuminated but dimly as current to the bulbs was reduced through the resistor.
It was meant for town driving where you had street lamps, you didnt really need dipped beam and side lights weren't quite enough, some kinda effort to stop dazzling oncoming drivers. (oh the irony nowadays)

So.

Ignition off.
off - Side - Side.

Ignition on.
Off - Side lights and dim dip combined - Headlamps

Whats happening in on yours is that the dim dip is confusing the relays and turning them on when they shouldn't be.

Dip-Dim as a regulation has now been dropped and you'll be hard pressed to find an MOT tester that knows what is it, it's safe to disable by simply unplugging the relay.
I don't have anything here to check but pretty sure its behind the right hand headlamp, the resistor behind the left hand headlamp is for the radiator cooling fan, FFS don't unplug that!

Also, and I don't have a wiring diagram to hand either, pretty sure they are a pair of yellow wires that run to it.
 

I found it.

Behind the driver side headlamp on my RHD 1988 camper.

I disconnected it and I now have sidelight functionality back, so thanks everyone for your help.

Simon Baxter wrote: ↑20 Feb 2025, 16:33

cobblers wrote: ↑18 Feb 2025, 20:40

Alfredo wrote: ↑18 Feb 2025, 20:16  

Also, and I don't have a wiring diagram to hand either, pretty sure they are a pair of yellow wires that run to it.

Yes, under all the grime, two yellow wires leading to a white plastic connector which I unplugged.

Finally found a minute to list the relay kit if anyone is following this waiting for me to pull my finger out!
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/headla ... kit-t3-86/
 

Mr Baxter.

An extra question for you.

I’m likely going to install additional driving lights triggered by the main beam stalk control.

Can they be run off the same main beam relay or do they require their own dedicated relay?

I’ll need to run a fused live for the spotlights anyway. Switched by the headlight switch I would imagine.

Matt

I don't think the cabling will support any more load if you have rectangular headlamps, it's pretty much at it's max.
Round headlamps and you should get away with it.

Hi Guys,

I have no headlight but I’m getting 12v through my H4 ground connection. Any ideas? Seems to be happening since I washed the van about 2 weeks ago but may be unrelated. Thanks
 

Mate you would be better off starting your own thread instead of posting this on the end of someone else's.