Club 80-90 Forums

Id just fix the issue rather than add extra stuff in thats gonna cause issues and complicate things further when it goes wrong.

Cheers for suggestions,

so im thinking replace lead. That way I know all is well..

A few questions. sorry to ask.

Does the current black and red cable as suggested go from key ignition switch to fuse box. then under van to black box in engine bay then box to solenoid.

will check connections at the points..

then does the new wire need to be as thick as the current one??

Ideally the new wire would be thicker , less voltage drop , more reliability

You have a later van, and therefore the later CE1 fusebox.

The down side to the CE1 wiring is that everything goes via the fusebox.
The fusebox is used as a junction box, not just a fuse box.
In my opinion, un-necessary additional wiring.

If it was me, I would run a single fresh wire from the switch terminal, all the way to the starter solenoid.
Fewer junctions and joints, means fewer chances of losses due to dirty, loose or damaged connectors.

As for wire thickness, the same size or a little more.

The switch shows two wires (red/black).
One is 4mm CSA (fuse box B8) -
linked internally to fusebox D24.

One is 1mm CSA. (fusebox B4) -
linked to (fusebox E4)
and onward to rear 7 pin barrel connector T7a/6

The starter cable is 6mm CSA.
to fuse box D24.

So - you could run a 6mm cable from the starter, directly to the ignition switch.

Join the thin red/black wire to the 6mm wire at the female spade connector.

I personally would crimp and solder all connections.
But I am bit O.C.D. with wiring.

And if you haven’t already, learn how to read wiring diagrams

https://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/

to finish this,

I cut the black and red wire at ignition switch, ran a wire all the way under the van to ignition switch and so far all is good