Club 80-90 Forums

That is a DF carb and inlet manifold , certainly not a DG so be sure of which part you search for

Are you 100 percent on the inlet manifold and carb?

Think it was df engine originally but defo code dg on the block. Will take pics.

If that's the case I'll upgrade it to dg IM and carb for the extra horses!

It goes alright as it is but hey.

Defo DF carb/manifold setup. Have a look under number 4 plug lead for the head part number. If it has a B suffix you have DF heads, and therefore really small inlet ports (see pics). All other versions are larger ports and valves, so will be DG.

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I went through all this investigation before.

I had a DG engine, with DF Solex carb, inlet manifold, plumbing, and double vac dissy. ( The pics here look like single vac? )

I did a whole thread on it on how I went to DG Pierburg carb etc.
It was a nightmare - deffo focus on the issue you have first and foremost, then come back to the other bits when you feel inclined to do so.

I'll have a look for the other engine marker but here is the one I did find saying dg.

Carb looks like solex 34 pict to me. So what does that mean? See one similar for sale saying ey code.?

Currently working on copper pipe equivalent.. going OK. Sender is a problem. Have to do temporary bodge . Pics later

Have a read of this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=147477

I would advise certainly focusing on your leaking pipe first.
Then come back to investigating this if curious, or feel motivated to work through it.

What you may find otherwise is that you get drawn into a lot of excessive work ( and cost ) if you feel like you want to 'straighten' it all out before addressing the primary issue of leaking coolant.

This isn't to tell you to leave alone, or to try and make you follow a path - but it is to make sure you have your eyes open going into it.

Yes you are right

But if I find out what I've got then at least I can keep my eyes open for parts ..as if I'm running a df carb and inlet manifold , that will go on the list!

It'll all be funds permitting.

The copper pipe is nearly ready to go on,
That should get it back on the road .

Not too excited about swapping every single cooling accessory! So will be putting that off as long as possible as it'll be a nightmare to get them in the right place. The diagrams I've seen are almost good.

Boneyt25 wrote: ↑13 Oct 2022, 16:56 Yes you are right

But if I find out what I've got then at least I can keep my eyes open for parts ..as if I'm running a df carb and inlet manifold , that will go on the list!

It'll all be funds permitting.

The copper pipe is nearly ready to go on,
That should get it back on the road .

Not too excited about swapping every single cooling accessory! So will be putting that off as long as possible as it'll be a nightmare to get them in the right place. The diagrams I've seen are almost good.

Spot on.

The distributor on yours looks to be single vac ( unless that's just the camera angle. )
The single vac ones were for DG and DF used a dual vac variant.

If you start looking for parts, take the the part number off of the distributor you have and post on the forum for others to verify before you buy another. You may be fortunate there.

 

Right so

Firstly,
Thanks for all your input so far. You guys have been most helpful! Unfortunately, though I'm not new to nuts, bolts and electrics, I've not done engine work ather than fault finding on modern cars. I'm pretty sure this is the first vehicle I've owned pre fuel injection.

Anyway,
Copper pipe is now in, I'll send a pic of the final product shortly. Let me know if you think there's any likely issues. The one bit I'm not sure about is the smallest pipe top left. As it was more biased directionally on the original.

I checked head code and seems to be marked with a c or g , hopefully this is good ? Pic attached.

Distributer appears to be single vac as you said, ie one tube...going on your experiance here, dont know these intimately.. Pics attached , I tried to include code but it's hard to read .

Pierburg device next to it...

Tidied up the cables a bit.

Ignore the temp sender. I couldn't fit to the pipe so I will have to cut one inline in the hose to primary expansion tank? Though I'm sure it will work where it is , short term. The copper should conduct the heat well enough. But hope to pick something up tomorrow or next week.

Going to fill and bleed it tomorrow. Read somewhere about using bleed valve while revving. So will try that. Also will park on a hill for a bit. Done this before when I replaced the heater control valve.

There's two pipes with nothing attached. Let me know if this is right. One looks like exhaust. Other is on air intake.

Thanks for the link on the df dg detail. I read the first 6 pages but may need to dig right through it at some stage.

Ta

OK, for starters so the peirburg device is the petrol pump .
You have a late early cooling system , which is to say its the late version of the early cooling system, just before the late system came in.
The temp switch you have not got fitted into the copper pipe you have made is the switch that triggers the relay in the black electrical box on the bulkhead which powers the manifold heater , without it the manifold heater will be on all the time drawing 11amps .

I think the two air intake pipes you are talking of ( cant see from pictures which you mean) will be to the heat exchanger on the j pipe of the exhaust to warm the intake air , dont worry about them, its not even needed in the uk climate and vw did away with it on the late exhaust system anyway

Lol cheers Steve,

The temp switch is fitted, it's just cable tied to the pipe at the minute, it should be working adequately as it gets hot quick off the copper. But will do permanent fix. I'll check the operation of the manifold heater next time I warm it up.

Yes I'll take pics of the pipes. , but I think you guessed right. They are both low down on drivers side. One nearer the bulk head.

Just been for test drive and pipe seems to be doing what it needs to. Spotted another rusty bugger right at the rear. Think it was from thermostat. So that'll be going on the list.

Struggled to bleed.

Reckon I only lost about a pint. But the bleed screw on the big run around hoses. Didn't seem to do bugger all. All pipes I could touch were hot tho. So will have to look up the procedure.

I'm impressed with the copper solution you came up with BTW.

( I tried to see distributor part number, but too hard to see on the pic. )

I think this thread could be moved to the mechanical section - we are way beyond a wanted item now - which is a good thing.
I like it.

Smiffo wrote:I'm impressed with the copper solution you came up with BTW.

I think this thread could be moved to the mechanical section - we are way beyond a wanted item now - which is a good thing.
I like it.

I agree, especially as it's not wanted now

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Simon Baxter wrote a good bleed instruction, see url below. But yes, I agree the bleed screw on the engine bay pipes is not very effective. Take the grill off the front and use the bleed screw in the radiator.

https://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/blee ... 29710.html