Club 80-90 Forums

Hello,


The green line outlines the flap mechanism, does the thermostat underneath the tinware rhs work?
Are the flaps free to move.

If they are jammed, best put them into the open position.

With this set up you will not have cold start hot air assist....which means longer to warm up.

Cordialement,









 

sarran1955 wrote: ↑26 Apr 2022, 07:50
With this set up you will not have cold start hot air assist....which means longer to warm up.

Before I start taking things off, are there advantages beyond simplicity for having an SVDA as opposed to DVDA?

Thanks

Pete

Hello,

Like I said earlier, I set up on SVDA purely because I want to replicate a T2 engine, so that I can look at running E85.

If you fit a DVDA then you keep all the hoses, losing only the old wiring system amplifier and so on..
This is what you do on a DF or DG wetbox.

I think the timing will be about 5* After TDC....

Cordialement,

sarran1955 wrote: ↑26 Apr 2022, 07:50
The green line outlines the flap mechanism, does the thermostat underneath the tinware rhs work?
Are the flaps free to move.

If they are jammed, best put them into the open position.

With this set up you will not have cold start hot air assist....which means longer to warm up.

Hello,

Yes, the flap mechanism is working, but I'm not sure about the thermostat (how do I tell please?).

I misunderstood earlier, I thought you meant with an SVDA it would be a longer warm up, but the set up you were referring to was the jammed open flaps. Sorry about that. Hopefully mine will be OK.

Thanks again for all your help

Pete

sarran1955 wrote: ↑12 Mar 2022, 13:20 Hello,

Here are your timing marks: Cage and turbine.

Hi again,

Apologies for being such a pain, but I'm still a bit confused over timing marks. You may have guessed I am learning and don't know some of the absolute basics.

On the pulley there is a single dent in the front, as highlighted, but we can't find any other marks on the rear of the pulley. This is the timing mark - is this the same as the TDC mark? 

I found an original CT fan cage with a timing scale:



In more detail

P

Please correct any mistakes. The triangular notch above lines up with the one in the existing cage, which to me looks like 5 ATDC, the timing for a standard dual vac dizzy.

The red arrow points to 10 BTDC, which we'd use for the 034 / D17 powerspark, set up for E10. 

We need to mark 0 and 10 BTDC on the case, and use the 10 BTDC mark to set timing using static method first, then tune it using the strobe.


Before we adjust the timing we have to re-check the tappets, which we did by marking TDC on the pulley at 12 o clock after taking out No 1 plug and turning the engine etc, but if we use the timing mark on the pulley, that obviously wouldn't line up with 0 on the scale. Forgive my ignorance, but does that mean the timing mark on the pulley is for timing only, and not the true TDC? This is really confusing me.

Thanks for any help

Pete

 

Hello,

Wow...that timing scale is made of unobtanium....

The CT is different from other air-cooled VW motors, because TDC does not line up with the split in the crankcase.

Without said scale, I use a screw in vernier bolt,(for timing 2 stroke engines) to find true TDC.

TDC will line up with the 0* semi-circle.

If you are using E10, you may find that the timing settles down at about 12* BTDC

Here in France, the hot topic on the forums is running E85 in a modified Pict 34/4 on a CT..

Cordialement,

I hope people are still interested in this topic?
I am in the process of deleting the dvda for an svda electronic ignition. I was looking things over today in my engine and noticed a few differences from the photos in this post. I think maybe there has already been some modifications made to the engine by the previous owner. It looks like the cold start enricher has been removed but it also looks like it was never there in the first place. There is no port for it on the air filter box and I can’t find where it would have gone on the carburetor. I understand that this gets blanked of anyway, but maybe someone can make sense of this and explain to a bit of a newbie. As far as I can tell there is no “control valve” on the carburetor either. At least that’s what I can make out from the Haynes manual.

I certainly am Bus brother!

I maybe running a CV 2056cc with twin Dell's but we Air-heads have to stick together

Hi, your photo of the side of the carb has the cold start enriched missing. I get a part machined up for this, and I will look in my stock when get home in a few days
Cordialement

Amazing thank you. I have made some good progress on the SVDA conversion. I have to iron out a few things but I hope to have time tomorrow. Programming the distributor has been a little more difficult than expected.

Hello again,
I have decided to try a mechanical SVDA distributor. I’m not having a ton of luck with the electronic one. It’s working but it’s giving me low power and sort of “bogging” down when I shift gears and low RPM. I think that means I need to advance the timing a little? I am also looking at trying a restored Bosch 034 distributor but a Bosch 022905205S it’s also an SVDA that was in Vanagons. I however have the 1600 CT engine so I’m not sure the 205s will work. Does anyone know anything about this distributor and if it would work in a CT with a 34 pict 4? Thanks for any input.

Made a discovery! It would appear I had the wrong length spark plug in my CT. I had short reach plugs. I did a little research and found that certain engine years had the longer reach ones. This could probably have caused some of the hesitation when driving.

Finally got it figured out! Thanks to everyone for their input especially @Sarran1955 it was the first time I’ve ever taken out and replaced a distributor. Now I just have to clean up the engine bay.