Club 80-90 Forums

Clarts,
cheapo option first....
change all the small pieces of flexy pipe, as they will all be suffering the effects of advancing years.....(bit like me!)
Check the 'valves' that are in the air intake box/plastic pipes (think Mr Haynes tells all)

Finally - if your van fires up good from stone cold (choke is working properly) then the revs wont drop to a nice level straight away, you might consider the choke unit bolted onto the side of the carb....it was a problem I had til I rebuilt carb and found the heater element inside was damaged - its very fragile so could be the culprit.

I have pics and a full repair explaination (VW have discontinued the bit and GSF dont do em) just ask.....

thanks fairwynds, I did look at your thread previously about this.

HarryMann wrote:Didn't you originally say the flexible connector had a split about 2" long?

What is being sucked in, the connector rubber piece?

yes the rubber flange has a split but only across the top layer, so until that piece is replaced it is not as stable as it should be but this does not leak, I am very sure of that. The piece of rubber I am talking about is gthe bit in the picture, it is sucking quite hard on the little box (probably an air flow meter of sorts). and if I pull it off the air flow meter whilst the engine appears to be struggling it relaxs but then idles at say 1000 instead of 800 rpm... if you know what I mean. perhaps it is supposed to not actually suck anything in but is just supposed to be under pressure. it only happens for the first bit of a warm up, but did not today after disconnecting this.

The big box is the air filter/cleaner unit and the small one prior to it is a Control Box (for diverting hot/cold air I presume). If those rubber sleeves are perished and or collapsing then change them. Also check the air filter for cleanliness.

Also follow faiwynds advice... I know little about the DG/DF and not many are posting Tech Advice at the moment it seems who do..

I think there was a volkswold event down south wasn't there?


thanks for the advice, at least I know it is curable rather than just old and tired engine

General advice:

After 15~20 odd years WBX's need all the pipes and hoses a through check and replacement if necessary. Ditto engine bay wiring/earth pints and fuel pipes/Tees etc. Especially any plastic components in the fuel line supply and cooling system.