Club 80-90 Forums

If you think it will help , do it, we can speculate as to how effective it would be. Might be worth trying to find a vw forum based in a hot climate which may be better to give you a better idea as to how to keep the temperature down .
Good luck and enjoy your trip.

Hello,

A bit lost here....

Air-Cooled is Air-Cooled....

The barrels run at about 180 Celcius, the oil at 80 Celcius..

The turbine driven air system dumps into ambient air at -20 to +50 Celcius...

There is more than enough margin to lose the combustion heat from a little 70 hp VW motor..

As posted above...good engine seal all round, rubber bellows between heater turbine and body work in place, air cleaner
properly fitted, all tinware in place...

The whole thing squeeky clean....yes the fins..

If you want to run really cool..this video shows how..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4i211jyX38

Spend your money on an oil pressure test gauge, and compression tester....

Then decide what to fix before Oz...

Air-Cooled Bliss....



 

sarran1955 wrote: ↑11 Jul 2020, 20:21 Hello,

A bit lost here....
 

Indeed !

Air cooled engines have a practically infinite source of cooling fluid which does not increase in temperature with use.

The fan flows around 1700 cfm at high pressure with the cooling system design of a type 4 engine

Now compare that to a computer fan, even ignoring the small matter of pressure as well as flow.

Air cooled engines transform into being oil cooled engines at around 180hp, based on 911 development

sarran1955 wrote: ↑11 Jul 2020, 20:21 Hello,

A bit lost here....

Air-Cooled is Air-Cooled....

The barrels run at about 180 Celcius, the oil at 80 Celcius..

The turbine driven air system dumps into ambient air at -20 to +50 Celcius...

There is more than enough margin to lose the combustion heat from a little 70 hp VW motor..

As posted above...good engine seal all round, rubber bellows between heater turbine and body work in place, air cleaner
properly fitted, all tinware in place...

The whole thing squeeky clean....yes the fins..

If you want to run really cool..this video shows how..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4i211jyX38

Spend your money on an oil pressure test gauge, and compression tester....

Then decide what to fix before Oz...

Air-Cooled Bliss....

Yes, I agree with you that monitoring the oil pressure is more important than heat, provided every part is in good condition and in place. You could get oil pressure problems with altitude for example even if everything is perfect.

What do you mean by really cool on that video? I did not see anything related. I love the video tho.

Speaking about oil pressure test gauge, do you guy suggest anything in particular?
I was speaking to Just Kamper regarding this kit https://www.justkampers.com/vdo-oil-pressure-gauge-kit-1200-2000cc-Aircooled-engines.html?fee=1&fep=1256&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLAs and they told me they don't have anything for T25 and then they directed me to this forum

sarran1955 wrote: ↑11 Jul 2020, 20:21 Hello,

A bit lost here....

Air-Cooled is Air-Cooled....

The barrels run at about 180 Celcius, the oil at 80 Celcius..

The turbine driven air system dumps into ambient air at -20 to +50 Celcius...

There is more than enough margin to lose the combustion heat from a little 70 hp VW motor..

As posted above...good engine seal all round, rubber bellows between heater turbine and body work in place, air cleaner
properly fitted, all tinware in place...

The whole thing squeeky clean....yes the fins..

If you want to run really cool..this video shows how..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4i211jyX38

Spend your money on an oil pressure test gauge, and compression tester....

Then decide what to fix before Oz...

Air-Cooled Bliss....

Oh, I didn't realize it's actually you on the video!
I love your videos! I just watched the whole 2L CU top end rebuild (and sent you a question). I have followed a total rebuild myself working together with the mechanic for 8 days. One thing I noticed is that even if my engine is the same I don't have the fuel pump on the engine but very close to the fuel tank.
Do you have anything to suggest to improve the performance and fuel economy of that engine? I have a Weber 32/36 carburetor (with automatic choke valve) and magnetic points for the ignition. Those are the only two upgrades I have.
It's automatic transmission .
Any opinion on this: https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ ... -94mm.html
and this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E3-DiamondFire-E3-58-spark-plugs-x4/112355280473?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372 (I heard they bring better fuel economy, but I don't know if it applies to the T25.
Thanks and have a good retirement road trip!