Club 80-90 Forums

24mm socket and t-bar or wrench

thanks is it mounted at the back of the oil filter housing,do you have to remove both 24mm nuts,thanks dave

No, just the switch

Deep socket is needed but the rear one is not accessible with a deep socket unless you remove lots of stuff, I'd just use an open ended spanner but you can't set a torque with a spanner you have to use experience as to how tight.

937carrera wrote:No, just the switch

rear switch is in a reducer bush and the reducer bush may come out with the switch.

In that case, how do I find our if I have a white 1.8 bar or a white 0.15-0.45 bar sensor?

It's should be stamped on the switch face next to the thread.

M

Update.....
The white sensor was a 1.8bar.
Changing them around so blue in low pressure and white in high has fixed the BOD! Much joy except I still have no low pressure light.
The lad who was doing the work tested the LED, it read 1.something volts and when started it read zero volts.
I suspect the LED although it is brand new as part of a cluster master kit?

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Glad you got it sorted, but to be honest I thought you had already swapped them over after some of the first responses.

it's dead easy to test the low pressure side. Ignition on, wire off the sensor, light should be off, earth the wire to s decent earth and the LED should illuminate.

Above test carried out, LED did not illuminate.
As I don't want to start messing around with the cluster master kit and doing damage I've emailed campervan culture to check how easy it is to try a replacement LED...

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Then I would suggest it's either a cluster fault (including LED and installation) or a wiring fault to the spade connector on the engine.

Tested low pressure LED which does work so the fault is elsewhere.
I have already replaced the wiring up to the spade connector next to the thermostat so it's somewhere else....


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There's nothing else to the wiring, apart from an internal fusebox connection. It really is a simple on /off switch which is why earthing the wire is the test

Page 5

http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/VW_T ... _SP_DG.pdf

Earth the wire from the LED - if it doesn't light then test the supply.

Post revival time, this time with a happy ending!

The Clustermaster kit was the likely suspect when I last posted, I contacted Campervan Culture and eventually through them, Clustermaster themselves in South Africa.

They talked me through testing the kit and narrowed the fault down to the original VW DOBS PCB behind the speedo.
Clustermaster did say that these are generally very reliable but they have not encountered my van before!
The only other they have found to be faulty was due to a dry solder in one of the connecting pins so I did get mine re soldered, with no success.

I managed to source a replacement DOBS PCB off ebay and ta da I now have a fully functional oil light!!!!

This has been super stressful and really tested me as I am an electrical dunce but slow methodical plodding (with a bit of expert advice) and I have an oil light again!