Club 80-90 Forums

https://www.vwheritage.com/039101343b-c ... c-vw-spare" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Andyroo wrote:Thanks davidoft,

I’ll take a closer look tomorrow night in case they are there and look to be part of the head/case.
If I’m not sure I’ll upload some pictures.


Are the seals/shims re-usable or should they be replaced everytime?

Probably reusable but I would replace them, I may have shims and Seals I’ll take a look

From Sarran san, the air-cooled guru:

"The crank case to barrel shims"
- Is the 0.14mm to compensate for the barrel heights, ie, is that so that the top of the barrels are level with each other so that the head is not distorted on assembly??
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/tran ... 82-n321399" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"The rings in the combustion chambers are de-compressor rings to allow the engine to run on 95RON"
- Can they be omitted for higher octane fuel?
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/tran ... 82-n312387" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Happily air cooled
x

...and another link to one of my favourite engine threads. Type 4 412 engine, slightly different components to the CU, but the engineering is the same

Nice little section on deck heights, and the discovery of why they were 7 thou different left to right

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... 6&start=20

Hello,

tobydog wrote:From Sarran san, the air-cooled guru:

I blush..

tobydog wrote: "The crank case to barrel shims"
- Is the 0.14mm to compensate for the barrel heights, ie, is that so that the top of the barrels are level with each other so that the head is not distorted on assembly??
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/tran ... 82-n321399" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The crankcase rings are a standard size, being mainly to give a good barrel to crankcase seal..they are only paper on beetle engines..

tobydog wrote: "The rings in the combustion chambers are de-compressor rings to allow the engine to run on 95RON"
- Can they be omitted for higher octane fuel?
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/tran ... 82-n312387" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes, their removal raises to CR from 7.7 to 8.1 or thereabouts.

You will have to lap the barrels to the heads.

Check all work with a straight edge..
Bits of this video will help..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZLeYcpMFps" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There are other rings available, eg to run the T4 motor as a pumping engine or generator to run at 7.1, also to modify the deck height on a 'stroker' engine..

and now...back to my magnificent sunset..

Air-Cooled Bliss...

Cordialement,

Ok, I've been out tonight and cleaned the parts with carb cleaner and I think the seals are there after all.
As mentioned by davidoft1 they did look like they were part of the head and barrels.
I've added the photo's below. Are these the seals/shims?



If they are, how do I remove them? Especially the barrel ones as they seem to be recessed into a groove.
I don't want to go poking around with a screwdriver. Any tips?

Cough...that was me actually.

I have always managed with a small thin screwdriver, with no damage but I am careful. Itchyfeet has a thread somewhere which had him using a butane torch to heat the ring up, it distorts slightly and allows easy removal

Yes, of course.
I’ll try a bit heat.

Probably won’t be until Friday though.
I’ll let you know how I get on.

Hello,

Kill 2 birds with 1 stone...

Set the head up square with valves and plugs combustion chambers up, in a plastic tray...

Pour brake cleaner or Lidl universal into the combustion chambers..

Leave for 1 hour..

This will loosen the ring and preclean the chamber...

and if the fluid has not leaked away, then you know there are no valve seat or spark plug thread crack issues...

Always fit new exhaust valves....



SK Reference 022109612 ...

Cordialement,

Another great tip.
Thanks sarran.

Hello,

checking on line ,

the Victor Reinz engine gasket set:



has top and bottom rings included, also the proper green and black push rod tube oil seals..

Check that your exhaust gaskets are rectangular, as in the photo..

Cordialement,

Hi sarran,

I emailed Just Kampers and Brickwerks and they supply a similar Elring kit. I’d already bought some of the required gaskets etc. They’ll just have to go down as spares.
Can’t find that Lidl cleaning stuff.

Diesel / kerosene works well as a carbon remover too. It doesn't evaporate like brake cleaner, but is more viscous so not as good for checking valve to seat sealing.

Readily available and cheap

Ok, so the seals are there and they are free now with a mixture of gentle heat and some WD40.

Next step, take Sarran's advice and fit new valves.
So I've bought myself a valve tool compressor from Machine Mart.
Erm… how much force does it take to compress the springs? The tool won't budge them.
I tried clamping it shut first and then winding the screw in and that didn't work either.
The tool just sprung open.


https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht461- ... ompressor/

Should this tool work?
Do the springs require a lot of force to compress?

Try a judicious whack with a mallet (on the spring side)