Club 80-90 Forums

937carrera wrote: On the CV bolts I think they will be either 6mm hex or could be an 8mm spline. You should properly clean them, soak them and then use a "tapped" in bit with a socket to remove them. Allen keys are too soft, twisty and if you chew the heads up life will become difficult.

Good luck

Cheers carrera, i was trying a 6mm hex from my socket set, no spline sets to hand so i will put that on tomorrows shopping list!

Be gentle disconnecting the pipe from brake servo vacuum pump as the the spigot on the pump is plastic and easily broken . The metal on the body of the pump is quite thick so I think the rust is unlikely to be a problem . Yes plug the pipe/spigot to prevent dirt entering. The pipe will not have any fluid inside ( air/vacuum)!

Cecil wrote:Be gentle disconnecting the pipe from brake servo vacuum pump as the the spigot on the pump is plastic and easily broken . The metal on the body of the pump is quite thick so I think the rust is unlikely to be a problem . Yes plug the pipe/spigot to prevent dirt entering. The pipe will not have any fluid inside ( air/vacuum)!

Thanks cecil, really appreciate the advice. I recently bought a sand blaster, so may give the rusty spots a blast while the engine is out.

^^^^^ seconded, that plastic is very brittle now it is old. So, if it is going to be re-used take care with it.
You can drop it with exhaust attached but it makes it awkward for handling, I would remove it from the manifold onward if possible.

Exhaust system removed today Some bolts were a pain to get to, one broke and one wasn't there Felt like i was in the crystal maze finding which one's connected to what sometimes.

Anyway, I should have a spare hour tomorrow to disconnect the throttle cable, fuel line, brake servo connection and electrics. Anyone know of a good item to plug the pipes/lines with?
Still completely new to this stuff, so feel free to advise me on the next steps!

Found a nice dint in my oil filler pipe too, doesn't look like it will cause any issues, but thought i best post it up here to be sure.


Cheers!

I just tie plastic bags over any orifices to prevent dirt ingress.
I am sure that flattened area on the filler pipe is meant to be there as I am fairly certain that mine had the same ( clearance for belt or something else?).

Yes disconnect plug it if y want it won’t do any harm, taking mine out next week 1y back to 1600 jx, what are you doing with yours?

Steve

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I just tie plastic bags over any orifices to prevent dirt ingress.
I am sure that flattened area on the filler pipe is meant to be there as I am fairly certain that mine had the same ( clearance for belt or something else?).

Cheers Oldie, glad my oil filler pipe isn't damaged then, just rusty as the titanic!

Will i need to remove the inlet manifold Oldie? It looked as though it would hit engine bars on the way down??

jaber wrote:Yes disconnect plug it if y want it won’t do any harm, taking mine out next week 1y back to 1600 jx, what are you doing with yours?

Steve

Cheers Steve, i have a 1Y on stand by but struggling to find the time to get it sorted to go in.

Plan is to remove the current KY engine to sort out some rust and bodge jobs done by one of the previous keepers. Then do a few trips before the year is through. Will hopefully have a 1Y sorted in the near future

How does a JX compare to a 1Y mate?

The Hairy Camper wrote:

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I just tie plastic bags over any orifices to prevent dirt ingress.
I am sure that flattened area on the filler pipe is meant to be there as I am fairly certain that mine had the same ( clearance for belt or something else?).

Cheers Oldie, glad my oil filler pipe isn't damaged then, just rusty as the titanic!

Will i need to remove the inlet manifold Oldie? It looked as though it would hit engine bars on the way down??

You should have enough wriggle room to leave it on. I have never had any problem in or out with it on.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:
You should have enough wriggle room to leave it on. I have never had any problem in or out with it on.

Cheers, even with the gearbox coming out at the same time?

I have always removed them separately but you will have more weight to manoeuvre and the balance will be different so you may need to tie a rope down at the manifold attached to a beam across the hatch to help the whole lot twist a little as you lower them so that you can get the sump under the offside bar first. Just go slowly and carefully and you will wonder why you were concerned.
You will need to judge carefully for the arm of the crane - you will need to lift to start with whilst removing the engine mounts, you don't want to be trying to lift the van via the roof!
I use a sheet of ply on the ground with a piece of rope tied through a hole so that I can pull the whole lot out that way, if you use anything wheeled don't forget that you will need to lift the van higher to have enough clearance at the rear. If you have a level surface you could use some small pipe to act as rollers under the ply.
An engine on its own is a pain to lug about then with the gearbox still attached it is even worse. If you are working on your own like I always am it is better to think about making things easier for yourself. The crane is a godsend especially when getting the engine up to a stand which is the best place to work on one.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I have always removed them separately but you will have more weight to manoeuvre and the balance will be different so you may need to tie a rope down at the manifold attached to a beam across the hatch to help the whole lot twist a little as you lower them so that you can get the sump under the offside bar first. Just go slowly and carefully and you will wonder why you were concerned.
You will need to judge carefully for the arm of the crane - you will need to lift to start with whilst removing the engine mounts, you don't want to be trying to lift the van via the roof!
I use a sheet of ply on the ground with a piece of rope tied through a hole so that I can pull the whole lot out that way, if you use anything wheeled don't forget that you will need to lift the van higher to have enough clearance at the rear. If you have a level surface you could use some small pipe to act as rollers under the ply.
An engine on its own is a pain to lug about then with the gearbox still attached it is even worse. If you are working on your own like I always am it is better to think about making things easier for yourself. The crane is a godsend especially when getting the engine up to a stand which is the best place to work on one.

This is my setup Oldie:

Got the van on ramps (plus axle stands if the ramps fail), 2x wheeled dollies to take the weight of the gear box and engine, i'm using the crane in the pic, and i've got an engine leveller to make life as easy as possible.

Moved my 1Y around the garage using the crane the other week, it made it so much easier

Clearance shouldn't be an issue with the ramps. Can't wait to have the engine out, will feel a whole lot more confident once i've done it...once!

adie89 wrote:use a penetrating lubricant like WD40

A very common misconception. WD stands for "water displacement", regular WD40 is not designed as a penetrating oil (although the firm does do a penetrating oil). Plus Gas works well, or even cheaper, diesel fuel painted on and left overnight.

spherehopper wrote:

adie89 wrote:use a penetrating lubricant like WD40

A very common misconception. WD stands for "water displacement", regular WD40 is not designed as a penetrating oil (although the firm does do a penetrating oil). Plus Gas works well, or even cheaper, diesel fuel painted on and left overnight.

I've been using GT85 on most rusted bolts.