Club 80-90 Forums

Ian Hulley wrote:I'm not an air-cooled guru BUT if you stop a flat 4 at the side of the road on a run and dip the oil immediately you will find that most of it is hiding away in the corners. Dip it again the following morning and it will all be back from it's hiding places. A little oil goes a very long way in puddle form.

Ian

I suppose that's positive really. Could be I hadn't lost loads of oil, just enough to trigger the light. I then overfilled at the side of the road and got trailered home. I guess if I check the engine on Saturday I'll find out by the dipstick.

Am I right in thinking that if the filter isn't secure then that affects the flow, which affects the pressure which then causes the oil light on the dash? In other words, once the filter worked loose enough the engine could have sufficient oil in it but the oil light would still come on?

Clutching at straws but in this situation, you've got to remain positive

Always be positive ... what you say COULD be true .... but even if it needs a new engine it's not the end of the world.

Ian

Merrsh1 wrote:
Am I right in thinking that if the filter isn't secure then that affects the flow, which affects the pressure which then causes the oil light on the dash? In other words, once the filter worked loose enough the engine could have sufficient oil in it but the oil light would still come on?

I would go along with that and add that pressure reduction = flow reduction = overheating oil not taking heat away from the bearings.

First engine I blew up was an Aircooled type 4..... low on oil, high revs, warning light on followed by deceleration as the big end shells welded themselves to the crank.


.......... but we all hope you got away with it

937carrera wrote:First engine I blew up was an Aircooled type 4.....

Love the idea that was the first and many more have followed

Thanks for the help, Saturday is ignition day so I'll report back.

... consequently it was also the first engine that I rebuilt

Going to have to move house soon as daughters secondary school is so far away. This time I'm going to make sure I get a garage or at least a drive so I've got somewhere to do bigger jobs. Fingers crossed your engine isn't dead.

I used to walk 4 miles each way to my secondary school when I lived in London.

Kids have to be driven 100 yards these days.

Make them walk mate

Starting problem could simply be ignition switch, mine does that, I have the switch waiting for me to have enough enthusiasm to change it


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Well the van lives

Replaced oil and filter this morning and checked the old oil, no bits at all.

Van was reluctant to start but I’ve had a starter issue for a while now.

Took the van out for a 20 minute drive, all sounded fine and drove exactly as usual. Even took it up a couple of big hills when warmed up in 2nd revving like a goodun with no problem.

Then drove back to where it’s being sat for the last fortnight, had some tea and toast to steady the nerves and drove it the half hour home, again with no problems. Started on the button...

I think I caught it in time before any damage was done but I’m going to invest in an oil pressure test kit to ensure it.

Any thoughts additional checks to do, etc?

Really happy she's still a runner.



Getting an oil pressure tester is a good idea, something that will read something like 7 - 10 bar will be fine.

Make a point of making regular checks that there are no leaks from the sump plug (you could mark it with a dab of paint) and the oil filter is still tight.

937carrera wrote:Really happy she's still a runner.



Getting an oil pressure tester is a good idea, something that will read something like 7 - 10 bar will be fine.

Make a point of making regular checks that there are no leaks from the sump plug (you could mark it with a dab of paint) and the oil filter is still tight.

Cheers. Oil pressure tester now on order

Good, and when you've done that get your starter sorted so it doesn't give the appearance of a seized engine