Club 80-90 Forums

Square lights, big bumpers, alloy wheels, it's just the paint job that makes it utilitarian

itchyfeet wrote:Square lights, big bumpers, alloy wheels, it's just the paint job that makes it utilitarian

It's a good job I don't come on here to make friends!!!

It's got rubber floor covering, how much more utilitarian can you get?

Smiffo wrote:

what2do wrote:

Smiffo wrote:It's the barest of bare panel vans, no such luxury - purely utilitarian.

Pure Barbarian, more like..!!
Out of interest, what gauges are you installing?

Out of an old Audi, I've been recommended to change the oil temp for one with a lower scale.

Nice idea Mitch - where are you going to mount it?

Do you have a thread running of how you are going to instal it?

Smiffo wrote:Nice idea Mitch - where are you going to mount it?

Do you have a thread running of how you are going to instal it?

Location, hmmmm, that's a bit of a conundrum at the moment. Will resort to something Heath Robinson as my looooong term desire would be to have them overhead with reading lamps. More pressing matters at the moment like dwindling compression - there ought to be an emoji of someone burying their head in the sand!

Well, when you get round to it, take a look at the first few seconds on this vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XqBodZAysg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This all reminded me of his series a watched a while ago - he was converting 2WD to Syncro - and did it al himself.
Nice job.

Anyway, I noticed his gauges back then above the windscreen and dug this vid out for you.
I think he is a member on here called Torsen ( IIRC )

Check this thread out too:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... n#p8009712" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've got the same Audi gauges, the oil pressure and temp are in one of the Brickwerks ashtray gauge mounts, the voltmeter is connected to the leisure battery via an ignition switched relay, allows me to check the split charge relay is working.
Do you have the oil pressure and temperature senders?

I've got the gauge circuit diagram from Audi 80 workshop manual if it would be useful to you.

what2do wrote: More pressing matters at the moment like dwindling compression

there's an engine in my shed, stop faffing around with gauges.

(copied over form an ancient post I did on Samba:)

This applies to '86+ fuse panels:

When you want a power supply for something, there are unused pins on the back of the main relay panel for most anything you'd need. On the left end (installed position), there are 6 pins in two rows labelled "P". These are all #30 pins, battery direct, unswitched, unfused. They are good for fairly heavy consumers. At the other end are ten pins labelled "G". These are hot under various conditions and can be used to power accessories. You can patch into the panel at whichever pins do the job for you by just plugging on a female spade terminal. It is always advisable to use a fuse inline from any power source to protect your device and wiring.

I'll list them according to the diagram. Where power is via a panel fuse, I've noted that with the letter "S". Always verify with a testlight or VOM before hooking up:

G1 & G3- X-bus load-controlled power (hot when ign. on, goes cold when starter operates) via S12
G2 & G5- #15 ignition-switched power via S18 (this is the ideal power source for extra instruments)
G4- D+ (alternator trigger circuit) via alternator warning LED
G6-dead end
G7 -headlights power
G8 -dimmer-controlled panel lighting power (to light your extra gauges)
G9 -parking lights power via S20 (for your low-rider under-chassis lighting, ese!)
G10- hot when windshield washer pump runs (headlamp washers, anyone?)

Earlier panels with stick fuses may also have extra power pins on the panel. You can check with a testlight or VOM.

Thanks to all, comprehensive answers will be put to good use soon.