Club 80-90 Forums

Undo the drain nipples and bring the level down a bit.

Sir Brixalot wrote:I was wondering about that. I can see online it recommended that the bottle has the lid taken off and and cloth wrapped around to mop up any overspill. I didn't see it mentioned in the Haynes though.

If you have never topped up the fluid then there will be enough room for the fluid getting pushed back.
Whenever I change the pads I change the fluid, it should be done every two years anyway

This is the plan. Is there anything I've missed? Thanks

1. Take lid off brake fluid reservoir
2. Put van on Axle stands
3. Remove wheel.
4. undo bottom bolt on caliper and swing out of the way
5. Support caliper with wire/string
4. Hold pistons back with g clamp
5. Remove pad
6. Clean channels put in new pads.
7. Put it back together again and top up brake fluid, cap back on.
8. Pump brake pedal before driving off

Pads fine.

There is a rip in the seal for the piston which might account for the rumbling. Is it safe to drive with a split?

GSF sell the seal on its own. Is it just a matter of pushing it on from the front?

That won't account for rumbling.
Worn or incorrectly adjusted wheel bearing will rumble.

Only rumbles when braking and spins freely which i what made me think it was the pads. Doesn't look too hard a job if I have to change a bearing. The splash guards virtually rusted away so it's probably worthwhile sorting it all out although it may have to wait while I actually camp in it!

Has anyone replaced the piston seal before and is it just a matter of pushing it on from the front

Sir Brixalot wrote: 4. Hold pistons back with g clamp

You use the clamp to push the piston back in. You don't need to hold the piston back once its done, it should stay there until you press the pedal.
protect the end of the piston and wind it in slowly.

Rumbling sound when pressing brakes! Is it all the time ie gentle braking/firm braking, does it stop immediately?

I'll put pads back in and check. I notice the plastic backing on the pads has worn away. Does that matter?

Tightening up the bolt to 270nm resulted in sheared bolt and I hadn't even got to 200nm

No but use some copperslip to liberally coat the back.
Stops squealing

Tranks KTR. THe small bottom bolt has sheared for the second time. I'm wondering if 270nm is right for a single piston caliper

That torque is for the caliper to hub carrier bolts.
They do not need to be undone to change the pads
The caliper lifts up out of the way once the lower guide pin bolt is removed (35nm)

Sir Brixalot wrote:Tranks KTR. THe small bottom bolt has sheared for the second time. I'm wondering if 270nm is right for a single piston caliper

Mate you need to have a think about what you are doing , these are brakes your working on. Read the manual , read it the night before you do it, read about the torque settings, read it again , do not rush into doing work on your van !

Thanks I get your concern. I read the Haynes already and the van wont move until its safe as I've got two children. I have to learn through experience and I do't know much of the terminology but I pick it up quickly. The caliper didn't come off just slid part of it off. Thanks KTR I had worked out that is was way too much for such a small bolt as it is more than is used for the wheels and I emailed Brickwerks to double check.
Pads in, pin is tightened up to 35nm. Pumped on the brake pedal but the pads are holding the disc but it doesn't spin totally freely but needs a bit of pressure. From memory that's how it was when I got it done professionally last time.

I used to work on my cars but until recently hadn't picked up a spanner in 30 years but three times on the trot local garages messed up so I decided to do it myself. I also found out having torqued the wheels on properly that they were put on too loose last time which might account for the noise. I'm abut to give it a run and find out.

Been round the block no rumble so far. brakes fine. Will see how things go re rumble.

What worries me (apart from the vagueness around torque settings) is the split dust cover! The 'hygroscopic' nature of brake fluid will mean water will be attracted behind the piston leading to seizure (if it hasn't started to do so already)
And
Secondly...a question mark over correct adjustment of front wheel bearings, which under no circumstances should be torqued up...rather, clearance set almost to hand tight..see manual.

Martin

I worry about this chaps spannerwork aswell ! Whats the update mate , have you done the caliper repair ?