Club 80-90 Forums

I bought a load of yoga mats cheap that are around same thickness. Most of it is going under back seat and over engine hatch.

moospop wrote:We are looking at this....our van is gonna need everywhere doing...any views would be appreciated, good or bad/critical.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262293521782? ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers
Colin

That looks just like the stuff from Kiravan. To be honest, as long as it's closed cell and foil faced it's pretty much going to perform the same whatever the brand. I'd simply do the maths and buy whichever one was cheapest.

Having recently done my doors, be warned it takes ages because of the shapes involved and limited access. Very satisfying to look at afterwards though.

IndigoSteve wrote:I've just replaced the original yellow sponge type material with a recycled plastic loft insulation from b&q. Good price and won't hold water


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Im undecided about this stuff; it might not absorb water as such, but surely the large surface area it presents allows it to hold moisture?

Smosh wrote:

IndigoSteve wrote:I've just replaced the original yellow sponge type material with a recycled plastic loft insulation from b&q. Good price and won't hold water


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Im undecided about this stuff; it might not absorb water as such, but surely the large surface area it presents allows it to hold moisture?

Filling voids with an insulation that comes into contact with both the inner and outer skin isn't what 'loose' insulation is intended for. There should be an air gap to prevent thermal bridging and condensation from just 'sitting'. There is always going to be condensation but with an air gap there will be air flow which will exhaust the moisture - surely that makes sense.

On some models vw used loft insulation material in the side cavities, this holds moisture, polystyrene wrapped with a thin layer of dacron is a lightweight option. Still keeping the original moulded floor insulation though.

I copied Lloydy and used foam pipe lagging in the void. I have high density closed cell foam with a foil back against the skin, then the pipe lagging tubes, then a vapour barrier.

what2do wrote:

Smosh wrote:

IndigoSteve wrote:I've just replaced the original yellow sponge type material with a recycled plastic loft insulation from b&q. Good price and won't hold water


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Im undecided about this stuff; it might not absorb water as such, but surely the large surface area it presents allows it to hold moisture?

Filling voids with an insulation that comes into contact with both the inner and outer skin isn't what 'loose' insulation is intended for. There should be an air gap to prevent thermal bridging and condensation from just 'sitting'. There is always going to be condensation but with an air gap there will be air flow which will exhaust the moisture - surely that makes sense.

That make sense, I hadn't thought about it from that aspect.

multisi wrote:On some models vw used loft insulation material in the side cavities, this holds moisture, polystyrene wrapped with a thin layer of dacron is a lightweight option. Still keeping the original moulded floor insulation though.

You have a floor with insulation for sale don't you?
Did the seat in those vans seat on the insulation? I'm planning to sit the seat on the sound deadening, but cut the insulation around it.

The original vw floor insulation runs under the back seat on caravelle and multivan models, that means the kick board on the vw rock n roll seat / bed unit will sit on top of the original floor insulation but screwed to the mechanism. The caravelle floor insulation will have strips missing where the middle seat runners would have been, these can be filled in with strips of carpet or something to bring it level before your floor covering is put down. I have used thin ply on the top of the vw insulation before so any final floor covering can be used.

What2do, did you post this on a fb group recently!?

Smosh wrote:What2do, did you post this on a fb group recently!?

I did indeed. I've only just realised that I've not put a comment with the above photo. I can't emphasise how impressed I am with it, now I need to eliminate the wind noises which 'appear' to be whistling more than ever.

Hello, Newbie owner and forum user here. Please excuse me if i don't use the correct terminology - i have a lot to learn!!! We have just stripped out our 1988 transporter and need advice/confirmation on insulating the floor please. How do you fill in the ribs in the floor? Do you use the same foil bubble insulation as on the sides (1or 2 layers?) and then is it 15mm marine ply or is there a lightweight product? Also, our bus is currently at the garage having the electrics sorted but I'd like to order the flooring bits so they're here when we get him back. Does anyone know the dimensions of the leisure area floor so i know how many tile packs to buy? Thank you

We used foil faced losed cell foam self adhesive in the ribs then closed cell foam mats from Aldi (Halfords also do them) then trailer decking board

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Bloody auto correct, mats were from Aldi...

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I thought of a cheap and effective solution (I hope!) as it uses the best insulation material but eliminates the risk of corrosion.

I bought a large roll of fibreglass and made packages out of it using thin plastic sheeting by the metre. I cut it with scissors to fit each void and used two layers. I just wrapped it up like a present and sealed it with duck tape. For small areas, you can fill small plastic bags tied in a knot.

If fibreglass is used on its own it can trap moisture and cause rust. It can also stick to the bodywork, making it very difficult to remove if rust develops.

I've had this insulation in for about five months now....in Spain. I've noticed it's a lot quieter and a lot warmer in the winter. I don't know about keeping out the heat yet but I imagine it will be very effective.

I will be insulating the floor as not only will it insulate against heat/cold but also sound from the engine. One idea is to use cut up old carpets.