Club 80-90 Forums

Check that the ignition is providing a good spark the moment it next fails. You will need an assistant:
Quickly uncrew a spark plug, reconnect the lead, rest the plug on the engine block (clean metal) crank the engine and and look for a spark*

***Do not attampt this if youcan smell petrol or you can see or suspect a fuel leak in the engine bay***

You may have more than one fault.
I had a starting problem on a carbed wbx (after a core engine swap) and it turned out to be the inlet manifold gaskets leaking air and making it go lean at idle.
New gaskets, instant starting.

*check that your engine has good earth straps fitted. One at the block near the coil, one at the gearbox nose mount.

Sent from my Atari 7800

Or carry a spare plug to save unscrewing one

ive got/had exactly the same problem with a van of mine, so im very interested in this post, its been stuck in a bloody paintshop for over 6 months now so I know ive got the problem when it eventually comes out.

If the engine does not fire when hot it is a simple process of elimination.
The same process as the non start when cold.
When it occurs find out what's missing
Start with sparks. (spare plug test) Then fuel...... (squirt some down the carb)

Then start renewing things relevant to your results

Not easy when it does it randomly and if you are on your own when it happens.

No it isn't but we're here to try and help with your engine issues not your lack of friends

good point kev.very true.

Thanks for all the advice. The van went again yesterday in London rush hour. The RAC man turned up quickly before the engine had chance to cool. He put some 'easy start' in the carb and it fired up instantly even though the engine was still warm. The van drove fine but the idle was lower than usual. He suggested looking at the choke, I'll do a few tests and post any findings.

BTW mine has an automatic choke.

They are all automatic chokes.
If it fired up with the easy start, then it's not the choke.

Once again, we ask if you have used ANY of the advice given to you?

huh?

It's fixed!

It seems the biggest issue was a worn fuel pump not functioning well when hot. This has been replaced along with the push rod. Also work done on the ignition - new coil, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads. Whilst the issue was fuel not ignition, all these parts were old and needed to be replaced at some point.

fattmenn wrote:It's fixed!

It seems the biggest issue was a worn fuel pump not functioning well when hot. This has been replaced along with the push rod. Also work done on the ignition - new coil, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads. Whilst the issue was fuel not ignition, all these parts were old and needed to be replaced at some point.

Mine had the same issue.. I managed to get it running again after I took the fuel line off the fuel pump and put it back on (it made a vacuum sound).. Checked a bunch of other things too, but that did not make a difference.. but fear it might happen again so thinking of pre-preemptively replacing the fuel pump..

I found a few options:
These look like the one that is in there now:
http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t25-parts ... -1992.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Pump-for ... SwPh5ZLY6M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

While this one looks more substantial:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Fuel-Pu ... SwjXRXbPGI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Would it be worth spending the extra ££ for the Meyle one?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/fuel-pump- ... l-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And see related products.

marlinowner wrote:https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/fuel-pump- ... l-wbx.html
And see related products.

Thanks!

Hi just wondering if this was resolved in the end? Mine is doing the same, literally just had new tank fitted, couple of weeks before that new fuel pump, distributor and rotor arm! Very frustrating!