Club 80-90 Forums

ghost123uk wrote:Ah, then be very careful not to break the (brittle) screw extractor
If you do manage to break it, they are then a devil to get out.
Have you considered the "drill, in stages, to the size of the shank of the bolt, then pull the threads out like a spring" technique?
Guessing it's listed in more detail in our "wiki" here = https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Te ... bolts/nuts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Link looks very helpful, cheers.

ghost123uk wrote: Have you considered the "drill, in stages, to the size of the shank of the bolt, then pull the threads out like a spring" technique?

The 'shank' of a bolt is the diameter the threaded part was before it was threaded.

Ian Hulley wrote:

ghost123uk wrote: Have you considered the "drill, in stages, to the size of the shank of the bolt, then pull the threads out like a spring" technique?

The 'shank' of a bolt is the diameter the threaded part was before it was threaded.

OK, I was paraphrasing somewhat. I don't know what the name would be for the diameter of the threaded bit, but minus the threads.

The last time I had to do this it was fairly easy to work out what size drill bit to work up to before attempting to pull the old thread out.
There is a link in that wiki article that helps with this.

Core diameter

Took an engine out of mine last weekend, and was pretty extreme in taking things off as there is another engine going in.
Before starting I labelled as many connections as I could either with tape or tippex and took lots of photos.
Made notes as I went ‘cause I don’t do this very often these days and this should give me an idea of re-install order!
By the way mine is '86 - late thermo type dg.

1. Drive on to ramps and chock wheels.
2. DISCONNECT BOTH BATTERIES
3. Drain oil and then replace sump plug and empty oil filter.
4. Remove air filter box/ carb pan/ vac pipes/ air in pipe.
5. Loom to carb – split cables AA BB CC (my labels – manifold htr, carb htr, choke) and disconnect fuel cut off valve.
6. Disconnect throttle cable (put clip in safe box)
7. Disconnect vac advance from carb (at distributor)
8. Disconnect fuel return.
9. Disconnect brake vacuum pipe from Manifold.
10. Remove inlet manifold water pipe.
11. Remove carb water pipe
12. Disconnect fuel pipe to carb at fuel pump.
13. Remove 4 inlet manifold bolts and lift off manifold complete with carb.
14. Remove cardboard air pipes (inlet – exhaust – inlet)
15. Remove offside head water supply.
16. Disconnect and remove alternator.
17. Remove fan belt.
18. Remove oil breather tower.
19. Remove fuel pump.
20. Unplug king lead to coil
21. Disconnect main rad water pipe from thermo housing (drains most of water!)
22. Remove heater water pipe from pump to thermostat housing metal pipe (behind forward engine space bulkhead).
23. Remove heater water pipe from thermostat housing.
24. Disconnect bleeding ring to nearside head.
25. Disconnect main pipe between water pump and thermo housing at water pump. Diconnect rubber pipe between main pipe and thermo housing at thermo housing – lift out pipe (drains most of rest of water).
26. Disconnect bleed ring to thermo housing pipe
27. Disconnect offside head to bleed ring pipe.
28. Remove and label side and front thermoplug from thermo housing (blue side, black front). Put clips safe.
29. Disconnect Dizzy to loom plug and tuck in safe. Leave dizzy in place – will ensure drive shaft stays in correct orientation.
30. Disconnect header tank from top-up tank and bleed ring – remove header tank.
31. Remove nearside tinware.
32. Remove offside tinware.
33. Remove rear exhaust box complete with pipe to exhaust knuckle (cut bolts with grinder in my case)
34. Remove top up tank.
35. Remove exhaust box heat shield.
36. Remove oil filler tube (If I’d seen Ghost’s post I’d have removed this about here – engine was dangling when I noticed it!)
37. Loosen clip on dipstick and rotate out of harms way.
38. Rig shackles on lifting points either end of engine – run strop between.
39. Rig engine crane, hook onto strop and take strain.
40. Remove bolts holding engine cross mount to chassis (shear off in my case).
41. Put gear in 4th – appears to me this will give little play at gearbox without straining linkage.
42. Ease down a few centimetres.
43. Put jack/stand/whatever to support gearbox.
44. Remove starter lower nut.
45. Remove engine to bell housing throughbolt to release starter motor.
46. Lift off starter motor and put on top of gearbox.
47. Remove other three bell housing to engine bolts (one more top, two underneath)
48. Pull engine back off gearbox. Will take some wriggling but be careful of levering gaps open – castings aren’t bullet proof. Don’t have to take all this stuff off but taking all this stuff off gives ample room to withdraw engine before lowering much.
49. Check nothing connected between engine and anything else!
50. Lower engine and withdraw from under van. I found that I was able to put boards across the crane legs, lower the engine on to them and still have clearance to withdraw the engine with the dizzy still in place using the crane as a trolley.

This worked for me - no doubt others will point out the errors of my ways.
Good luck!

Regards
Martin

Good lord...
Mr Porche would turn in his grave.

Flippin heck Martin, did you write all that

Mind you, you missed out item 51 = Sit down and have a mug of tea.

FWIW, I wouldnt sling a any single carb wbx by the inlet manifold.
They can give sealing problems anyway, due to age-related distortion (the casting relaxes) so use the integral lifting eyes on the crankcase. Two old 10mm carabiners and a 1200mm sling will do just fine.

Been there, had the air leaks... (always use new inlet gaskets!)

Thanks very much guys for hints and tips , I'm going to print it all out so I can quick reference it when I'm doing it the weekend.
You've all been really helpful.
Thanks again, Adam.

Typing that lot gave me an excuse to sit down and have several item 51s without being glowered at by the “Boss” for not getting on with putting the bl***y thing back together again.

Oh – and loosing the tatty and very grubby bits of paper the list is on!

Know what I’m doing this weekend!

Martin

Take the manifold off and use the two eyes provided in the case castings top front and back either side of the join. Use D shackles

Took me the day but finally did it .

Well done lad
easy huh?

why is the water pump off?

Because the stud that broke off in the head is right behind the thermostat, it's just easier to get to without it there.