Club 80-90 Forums

Oldiebut goodie wrote:I don't think that I stepped on anyone's toes by making my own clutch alignment tool.

That one's easy. You can use an old worn gearbox input shaft.

Not all vehicles come with 2 gearboxes. I know that ours tend to!

[quote="Dazco"]Has anyone got any dimensions of the proper VW tool? I might be able to knock a few up at work on the CNC [/quote

Have not got dimensions of vw tool but i did like boatbuilder said and made a stainless cone 100mm long x 60mm at one end going down to 47mm at other measured bush with verniers ,plenty of lube and goes straight through with studded bar and a selection of nuts/ washers ,magic !
cheers ,ash

For one set of bushes it would be hardly worth buying an expensive tool. Someone posted on Facebook where they had used an exhaust reducer pipe to do theirs.

I have done this using a modified hobby vise and 32mm socket and fitted new powerflex bushes, my question is should I have done up the bolts weight on wheels,I did get the bolts in the same place but I did it with the trailing arms not hanging free but only slightly jacked up.

I also made a fitting cone, same sort of dimensions but turned from hard PVC rod. No need to carve one out of any sort of metal, plastic is more than strong enough.

Sent from my Atari 7800

His may help.

Surprisingly popular.
https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/vw-special ... l?___SID=U" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Having removed and fitted a couple of trailing arm bushes, I wouldn't hesitate in fitting powerflex in this instance. Its SO easy in comparison to fitting rubber ones even if more expensive. What you spend, you save in time on that job. As many know, I'm really not keen on using powerflex everywhere (in particular front suspension), but where its a pig of a job or its something you don't want to have to revisit, like trailing arms, the powerflex ones win out.

Mind you, getting the old one out may still take as much time. We ended up burning mine out with a gas torch.

Some of you may not know this, but a greatvdeal of effort goes into suspension bush design and how the installed item is preloaded (compressed)
In the case of the rear suspension on a T3, the semi-trailing arms have bushes with parallel but offset axes i.e. as the arm moves, the bushes passively resist this movement due to the offset loads.
It was how VW designed in a degree of anti-squat/jack into the rear suspension (this type being known for wayward oversteer antics in certain applications)
The effect of changing to different rubber compounds - such as polyeurethane - remains to be seen.
Although I am impressed with the polyflex arb and rack mounts.
As you were
Sent from my Atari 7800

CovKid wrote:Having removed and fitted a couple of trailing arm bushes, I wouldn't hesitate in fitting powerflex in this instance. Its SO easy in comparison to fitting rubber ones even if more expensive. What you spend, you save in time on that job. As many know, I'm really not keen on using powerflex everywhere (in particular front suspension), but where its a pig of a job or its something you don't want to have to revisit, like trailing arms, the powerflex ones win out.

Mind you, getting the old one out may still take as much time. We ended up burning mine out with a gas torch.

Too late to offer any suggestions now but when I removed mine, I'd say it took no more than 15 minutes each just by drilling the rubber and increasing the bit sizes until there wasn't a lot of rubber left. It was just a case of tapping them out with a mallet after that. Quick, easy and clean.

Can't see powerflex ones available as an option anywhere. Am I missing something?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERFLEX-SUS ... aHIk70M83A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just fitted the brickwerks bushes in a matter of minutes, cut an old stainless hoover pipe to length of bush, sliced it down the side, jubilee clip on one end, put the bush in boiling water to soften, plenty of silicon grease, 46mm socket, impact driver with long m12 bolt. Pre load the pipe with the bush in a vice, pipe should flare open into a cone, could use another hose clip if it flares open to much and you are ready to go.

Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk

This is how we did it.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=159115" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;