Club 80-90 Forums

Nice one Ian! All that makes sense now and I'll get on with ensuring that my snorkel is water tight all the way down to the filter for when I take the 2.5 wading!!

Up the road to sunny Isleworth in the morning, shopping list in hand

Went shopping...


Then tried out various placement options. Boiling it down, looks like I need a few more 90's...

Ian, would you mind explaining what all those bits do? Is it some sort of remote filtration?

Yup. Remote filter head & thermostat. Takeoff plate on engine and "interwarmer" gets binned (good reasons later) Proving to be a bit cheeky in getting nice sweeping hose runs on a tight wbx installation, but I think that I have sussed it.

Side topic: this may prove to be useful later on...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=356377" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

silverbullet wrote:Went shopping...


Then tried out various placement options. Boiling it down, looks like I need a few more 90's...

Looking just the very biz Ian. We know that above all even a standard 2.1 needs better oil cooling for longevity (tencent, Syncrosimon and axeman amongst others have proved this) so a 2500 definitely needs a system that will both cool oil but also not over cool it - hence all your work on a thermostatically controlled system. I also need to put in ignition switched power for the fan??

I am putting in wiring for VDO oil temp and oil pressure gauges. I have the gauges and senders. Do we need any adaptors for these?

I was thinking of putting a std TD aux pump temp switch (105*C) to close a relay for the fan, so if the returning oil from the cooler goes over that temp the fan will pull in. For temp and pressure gauges we can put in a sandwich plate (in place of the interwarmer) for about £35 that has a pair of 1/8 BSP tappings plus a bigger one.
I can pick one up when I swap the fittings, it will affect the position of the take off plate so will need sorting asap because its all a bit tight under the waterpump.

Whether there is room to get the senders in there is another matter...

This is a great thread. Following with interest.

Of course I could just drill and tap the filter head to take the pressure & temp senders. There should be plenty of room for that, the filter will be a little closer than in the pic, more like just forward of the earthing bolt.

This type of thread is the main reason that I keep coming back here.

I tapped my remote filter housing for oil pressure but if you're using a t/stat will you need to t off before the stat engine side for o/p, o/temp ?

OMG! ...this thread is my new porn!

Another good day. All coming together now, the ducted fan enclosure needs a few little tweaks before its joined together to prevent recirculation but it looks ok to me.

Its still pretty close under there, but its got about 5-6mm off the pulley:
25row, 230 wide matrix

The logic is that a decent sized rad and 8" fan will dump heat fast, so the fan won't have to run for very long, so increasing it's service life.
Ducted fans are also more efficient, because they pull air across the entire matrix with no risk of hot spots at the corners.

Under 2.8m of hose used too, so thats less weight carried and more money available to spend on decent components.