Club 80-90 Forums

Yes ridiculous to commision work on guesswork! .. and if clutch not slipping or dragging leave alone. Maybe check hydraulics and operating arm etc.
Check Wiki on ToolsTipsTechniques for loosening bolts. A nut bolt driving punch will almost certainly get that plug loose (or hand tight)

Ok, points taken about getting unnecessary things done on guesswork. By seals I mean driveshaft seals. There is wet oil on the engine bearer, so there's definitely a leak there somewhere, whether or not cv is leaking. I'll have a better idea once (if) I get the pulley off.

Will have a look at the wiki.

Thanks

Engine bearer or bar is miles away from the drive shafts, do you mean gearbox mount?
get a pic up of the wet bit, it may be gearbox breather.
I have also seen people mistake coolant drips for oil, get some of the drip on your fingers and you will soon see if its water based or oil.

what pulley are you taking off, this is getting confusing?

punch is a good idea on the sump plug but not easy to get a hammer to it without jacking a bit

Sorry for confusion. Yes I know they are separate areas. Here's a pic of wet area.



I am taking aux belt pulley off to do water pump. That is the area I know is wet. As you say it could be coolant. I was assuming I would have to replace driveshaft oil seals.

(And if gearbox was coming out for those I would have to pay a far chunk for labour for a smallish job. Which is why I was thinking of having clutch done.)

AND, seeing oil all over cv/gearbox, thought that might need attention too. So I can see why I have confused you. Three potential areas that might or might not need work. Imagine how I feel!

E D I T: I know for sure water pump is shagged and needs doing.

Oil dipstick pretty wet:

Ok
normal places for oil leaks on dg engine
dipstick tube seal
oil breather tower seal
dizzy seal
fuel pump gasket
oil filler tube gasket
Check they are not leaking before doing the pulley Crankshaft seal, all available from Brickwerks

easier to change pump with the crank pulley off
it's quite easy to get the pulley off but it's easier still with a socket that has been turned down otherwise it hits the tinware, the head of the bolt is thin at about 10mm so a socket only needs 10mm insertion, you can hacksaw ths cheap shiny ones but not the harder matt sockets
an m8 bolt in the flywheel locks it, crank pulley is only 60Nm so not very tight but you will need a torque wrench.

I suspect that could be coolant anyway unless you have washed it any serious oil leak on the crank pulley would be much worse, if it is oil it could well be from somewhere else as I said above
A knackererd pump will leak coolant and it's common for the metal pipes behind the pulley to rust through, get stainless if they are weaping.

this is all common stuff don't dispair just work through it fixing just the important stuff first (water pump)

If that was a Triumph engine, I would say it was remarkably oil-tight...

itchyfeet wrote:Ok
normal places for oil leaks on dg engine
dipstick tube seal
oil breather tower seal
dizzy seal
fuel pump gasket
oil filler tube gasket
Check they are not leaking before doing the pulley Crankshaft seal, all available from Brickwerks

Thanks. I replaced the dizzy seal last week when I did the vac advance. Will give the dipstick area a clean and then have another look at the other ones you mention.

I bought the stainless coolant pipes last year but didnt get round to doing them. Was going to resurrect this thread as didnt want this one to get confusing! You can see on that photo that the oil filler is leaky.

I actually undid the bolts on the rhs pipe today. Bought a 6mm hex bit to have a go at the pump side tomorrow.

Water pump pulley is off at moment. Do I need the belt on to be able to undo pulley bolt?

ticket2ride wrote: Do I need the belt on to be able to undo pulley bolt?

If you mean crank pulley no, use the locking bolt as shown, if you mean water pump pulley then no but sometimes easier if the belt is on, it can be tricky to undo all the bolts.

nothing too unusual on the pics of that old thread^^

Plastic flange to rhs head needs changing to metal before if snaps off

itchyfeet wrote:

ticket2ride wrote: Do I need the belt on to be able to undo pulley bolt?

If you mean crank pulley no, use the locking bolt as shown, if you mean water pump pulley then no but sometimes easier if the belt is on, it can be tricky to undo all the bolts.

nothing too unusual on the pics of that old thread^^

Plastic flange to rhs head needs changing to metal before if snaps off

Thanks. Plastic flange is one job I did get round to doing.