Club 80-90 Forums

longer tube in place and cooler on, can't help thinking there should be a washer under the oil cooler retaining nut, it's grinding on the cooler and generating swarf can't be right, also 25Nm feels too much.

The metal pipe fits under the DG inlet manufold, and can be fitted without removing it, more pics later

P1030459 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1030466 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

No washer under the nut. Put it chamfered side to the cooler. Has to be tight enough to compress the special O-ring against the crankcase and the cooler almost goes metal-to-metal. 25Nm sounds about right.
PS basically you have converted to early syncro spec, mine was built with a DG but all wbx syncros had the interwarmer.

Thanks Silverbullet, took the nut off, chamfered both sides, this is a Meyle cooler so not a cheapo, cleaned it up and put it back.
There is a 0.5mm recess in the cooler which means the nut rubs on the corners, crying out for a washer.

I think I'm right in saying it's before filter so any swarf would get caught but I gave it a good clean to be safe.

P1030499 (2) by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Meyle are still pattern parts. Quality is fair, but I have not seen a washer under the nut on any engine so far.

Ok thanks SB

so VW 2.1 thermostat housing ( with a proper elring yellow oring), reducer pipe, also need the bent pipe to water pump, the cooler (got from VWH) and a seal in addition to the parts CJH kindly donated above.

one of the rubber pipes looks dangerously close to exhaust.

Most water pumps now are generic 1.9 and 2.1 and have a threaded plug and a tube, you pick which one you want, lost mime from last pump so Atoomer23 gave me his from his new pump.

got it up to rad fan cutting in temp and oil sits at 80 ish, will give it a good run Sunday and see what happens.

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... etrol.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... ducer.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... -hose.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/o ... w-use.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


P1030503 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1030504 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1030506 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1030508 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

stow away...
P1030502 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I should add this was done to improve hot oil pressure because I get the odd buzzer with 1540

this is running 2050 and shows the difference in accuracy between my wet gauge and my electric gauge at lower pressures.

1000rpm by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

1500rpm by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

2000rpm by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

3000rpm by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Does that mean that wet gauges are more reliable than electric and a low reading at idle from an electric needn't be a panic?

this is a cheap gauge others may be different point is there is variation and wet is probably more accurate

I'd say the 2000 rpm at 85degc oil temp is the figure to look at, hopefully most gauges will be reasonably OK mid range, Bentley says this should be 2 bar minimum but mine is a bit lower.

hard to know when 85 degC is reached without an oil temp gauge but with my van 15-20 minutes driving around town is about right.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p8058910" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... e#p8060588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Took it out for a good run today down the motorway, not a hot day but stayed steady at 85deg C
without the cooler on that run it would have been past 95deg C
oil pressure is also steady and better because of lower oil temp ( as pics above)

This cooler may not be up to scratch for a heavily laden 2.1 camper but I'd say a great upgrade for a 1.9 dg