Club 80-90 Forums

kevtherev wrote:There's the grinding noise then.. leaking wheel cylinder

Why is that then? Interested to learn not contradict you in any way.

If the drums have even the smallest of lip on them, I'd run the grinder gently around it. Less chance of a shoe catching it upon removal next time (depends what 'planned' maintenance you have that requires drum removal, eg. Bearings). A good clean to remove any oil before prepping/painting.

Thanks guys ... @kev ... Damn. .. I thought I could hear the grinding comming from the nearside front xD let's hope its not both. But yes why does the leaky cylinder cause grinding? Not enough pressure on the drums?

Observations:
Definitely a leaking wheel cylinder and obviously needs changing (do both sides whilst your at it) you may end up replacing the short metal brake pipes as well if the unions don't free off.
The angle of the hand brake lever would indicate that your hand brake cable is adjusted 'UP' and not allowing the levers back onto their rests....you MUST slacken off the handbrake cable so both 'levers' go all the way back. THEN you can properly adjust the brake shoes at the drum (re-adjusting the cable is done last).
Those drums may clean up, however, there is obviously a hard 'glaze' of rust that will need removing with an abrasive 'flappy wheel' or similar. If it were mine I would replace the drums depending on if your pocket allows.

Martin

As I see it.
And in my experience.
The leaking fluid creates a paste of brake material and rust.
This collects at the bottom of the drum.
So for the first few miles this paste rolls between the drum and shoe.

kevtherev wrote:As I see it.
And in my experience.
The leaking fluid creates a paste of brake material and rust.
This collects at the bottom of the drum.
So for the first few miles this paste rolls between the drum and shoe.

Makes sense, cheers.

Hello again,

So in my basket i have drums, disks, bearings, grease, a couple of bleed nipples to change out the front ones (if one had sheared off the others may be close to it?) and brake fluid.

My question for you guys is it worth getting the brake pad fitting kit or are the originals generlly in good shape? If so how do i tell if i have the girling or ATE?

Regards and many thanks for your help so far

Rob

There's an article in the wiki which tells you how to tell the difference.

Early two pot callipers:

ATE retaining pins have the sprung bush on the end that is drifted into the calliper.
Girling pins are drilled and use a 'G' clip as a retainer.


Martin

Thanks guys,

Will have a look tomorrow

The rest of the brake parts have been orderd and i had a few minutes to have a go at removing the hub nut and for the life of me i cant shift it... Any tips? I havent got anything i can extend my breaker bar with by the way

Why are you removing/attempting to move it?

Hmmmm yes, why ARE you trying to undo it?

I read (problably missread judging by your replies ) that you need to remove this to get the hub off to then get at all the springs and such behind them. Iv managed it now but was half dead by the end of it so was planning to aproach the next steps tomorrow. Have i been a total spanner? Ahh well you live and learn

The large castellated nuts on the rear brakes do not need removing to take off the drums. However, the peened nuts on the front stub axles do need removing when changing the brake discs.
Rears need an application of plusgas or similar easing fluid around the centre boss and threads and then 'bouncing' off with a hammer on the drum face (not sides).

Martin