Club 80-90 Forums

Back to where we were I think. Collapsed/broken release bearing or damaged/broken release arm. Don't assume because it was all done earlier in the year that it hasn't since failed. Lots of potentials including clutch pressure plate parting company. Instinct says the problem is in the bellhousing and theres only one way to find out.

Delbertini wrote:Just tried to engage gears with engine off and all gears selected ok, with engine on no gears. Then started it in gear and lurched forward. Any ideas?

It lurched forward with the clutch pedal down?

OK, so that is definitely a clutch problem.

By coincidence the photo in this topic just added shows the part I am talking about. This one is intact. The small bit sticking up at then end was broken off my clutch release arm.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=137889" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Aidan has now added some clarification to the other message.

I know what you mean, just because it was done this year doesn't mean it's ok. Well the money I paid for the conversion it should be but there you go, "pooh" happens. Gonna check the release arm and rebuild the slave cylinder as that's the easiest job to do, not that I think that's going to fix it after all the advice you guys have given. Thanks everyone for the help, really is appreciated, will update as I go.

Spigot bearing failed?

I've had horrible nightmares about spigot bearings. Damn things.

Ralf85 wrote:By coincidence the photo in this topic just added shows the part I am talking about. This one is intact. The small bit sticking up at then end was broken off my clutch release arm.

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=137889" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Aidan has now added some clarification to the other message.

So have you checked the clutch release arm as suggested to discount that as the problem?

when my spigot went I had lots of grinding mechanical noise as a warning. However, when it gave up the ghost (at 07.30 at a main junction - I was popular...) I couldn't get any gears with engine running or disengage clutch. However, clutch pedal went to the floor as normal...but van remained in gear. Only way to stop was to stall. In fact, thats wehn I realised it was wrong....I stalled with the clutch down. AA attended. Selected all gears with engine off....but as soon as we started up no gears. So with the box in second (as I was slowing down for the junction) he said he would follow me home. started, lurched forward, hazards the works...crawled it home (only half mile).

Fixed spigot kerbside. All bloody day....then mate came with a puller - had it out in 3 mins....new one in....normal service resumed.

My money is on the spigot...

Em
x

Think I've found the problem took off the slave cylinder to rebuild and found the rod that sits between the slave and arm has had a 10mm bolt wound into the top of it?????
Anyhow this has split the rod and crumbled the end, I guess someone bodged it in to take up the slack in the clutch pedal as there is a a lot of play, so next thing is to replace rod and adjust pedal.
Anyone know how to adjust clutch pedal insitu, maybe unbolt master cylinder, any things better than dropping the dash out, will try and upload picture of crime against VW, what was he thinking

I too was wondering if there's a way of taking up the slack in the clutch pedal. Just refreshed the fluid and noticed that not much happens until the latter part of pedal travel. It's been bled 3 times just to eliminate the possibility of an air lock.

Dont forget that a failed clutch master cylinder cant push enough fluid to move the slave...faster to change than the slave and often overlooked. They dont always leak either...

silverbullet wrote:Dont forget that a failed clutch master cylinder cant push enough fluid to move the slave...faster to change than the slave and often overlooked. They dont always leak either...

I had a single circuit brake master cylinder fail like that on the road, no fluid leak just brake pedal straight to the floor. Fortunately I was slowing to turn right so carried straight on, stopped with handbrake, swopped brake and clutch master cylinders over and drove last 20 miles with no clutch. This is why MOT handbrake test is more severe on single circuit cars.

just to muddy the waters a bit fyi the original clutch slave cylinder came from two manufacturers FAG and ATE and whilst they have the same effective stroke they do it in different ways hence the two pushrods are different lengths and should not be interchanged - with used parts being recycled especially in the 90s and noughties it is possible that the slave cylinder was made up of two different parts and the bolt bodge was an attempt to correct that mistake
the clutch master pushrod should only have 0.5mm of play at the cylinder but the chances are the clevis end of the pedal will be worn too, they are bad design, hard to lubricate and take a heck of a lot of force over time and they do wear - worst is you can't really see it all so you can try and adjust as per the procedure but be prepared for dash out pedal set out in the worst case scenario and then find a decent pedal set or repair yours - mine finally had to be done in the summer as the clevis pin pushed through the top of the pedal in the end

Don't know what you mean Aidan!

We have progress, fitted a new slave cylinder today and dropped the master cylinder to adjust the rod to the pedal. Both jobs were a bit of a mission especially trying to refit the rod to the clevis pin, got in all sorts of odd positions but both jobs now done. Managed to reduce the play in the pedal to 5mm as it was slapping about before. All I need to do is bleed the system and fingers crossed I will be able to select gears, if not I'm gonna burn it!