Club 80-90 Forums

monkeyboysee wrote:

kevtherev wrote:Worn mains, big ends, oil pump.
blockage in oilways.
relief valve failure.
wrong grade oil.
overheating.
oil foaming.
low oil.

well i can discard some of that list, its all strange as it runs fine and sounds "right" if you know what i mean. where is the oil pump, i haven't checked the electrical feed to it etc.

The oil pump runs off the crankshaft, there are no electrical connections

Rob has kindly lent me a test setup, can anyone spell out the test method and results needed etc please. cheers

What have you been lent?
Normally the oil pressure switch is removed and replaced with a screw in gauge. AC's are not my thing so I'm unsure of exactly where yours would plug in.

2 bar at 2,000rpm (hot) that's a minimum figure. Remember that oil doesn't reach its running temperature very quickly so the engine really needs a run (sustained speed) before plugging the gauge in.

Martin

What have you been lent?
Normally the oil pressure switch is removed and replaced with a screw in gauge. AC's are not my thing so I'm unsure of exactly where yours would plug in.

2 bar at 2,000rpm (hot) that's a minimum figure. Remember that oil doesn't reach its running temperature very quickly so the engine really needs a run (sustained speed) before plugging the gauge in.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:What have you been lent?
Normally the oil pressure switch is removed and replaced with a screw in gauge. AC's are not my thing so I'm unsure of exactly where yours would plug in.

2 bar at 2,000rpm (hot) that's a minimum figure. Remember that oil doesn't reach its running temperature very quickly so the engine really needs a run (sustained speed) before plugging the gauge in.

Martin

It's a decent kit with various connectors. There is a Bush to fit where the sensor goes so all good. Problem is, I have no rev counter, how critical is the 2000rpm? Also, as I have the red light on, I shouldn't be running it? Although I'm 99% certain it's running fine?

monkeyboysee wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:What have you been lent?
Normally the oil pressure switch is removed and replaced with a screw in gauge. AC's are not my thing so I'm unsure of exactly where yours would plug in.

2 bar at 2,000rpm (hot) that's a minimum figure. Remember that oil doesn't reach its running temperature very quickly so the engine really needs a run (sustained speed) before plugging the gauge in.

Martin

It's a decent kit with various connectors. There is a Bush to fit where the sensor goes so all good. Problem is, I have no rev counter, how critical is the 2000rpm? Also, as I have the red light on, I shouldn't be running it? Although I'm 99% certain it's running fine?

Not a sensor, it's a switch.
The lifter gallery is the best place to take a pressure reading at working temperature
The gauge will show you the pressure at cold too, it will or should be, be very high (over 50 psi at tickover), if it isn't then the pump has failed or isn't primed, the engine must be shut down

kevtherev wrote:

monkeyboysee wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:What have you been lent?
Normally the oil pressure switch is removed and replaced with a screw in gauge. AC's are not my thing so I'm unsure of exactly where yours would plug in.

2 bar at 2,000rpm (hot) that's a minimum figure. Remember that oil doesn't reach its running temperature very quickly so the engine really needs a run (sustained speed) before plugging the gauge in.

Martin

It's a decent kit with various connectors. There is a Bush to fit where the sensor goes so all good. Problem is, I have no rev counter, how critical is the 2000rpm? Also, as I have the red light on, I shouldn't be running it? Although I'm 99% certain it's running fine?

Not a sensor, it's a switch.
The lifter gallery is the best place to take a pressure reading at working temperature
The gauge will show you the pressure at cold too, it will or should be, be very high (over 50 psi at tickover), if it isn't then the pump has failed or isn't primed, the engine must be shut down

probably daft questions, when you say pressure at cold, do you mean stood with the engine off or just started? if i get the 50psi (3.5bar) at cold, do i proceed further to when the engine is hot? what would i need when hot?

switch, noted. DOH!

Cold..is cold innit?
then as the engine warms up the pressure will drop to around 12 -18 psi. at tick over once working temp is achieved

if you get no pressure at the start, or zero psi with a cold engine, turn it off.

kevtherev wrote:Cold..is cold innit?
then as the engine warms up the pressure will drop to around 12 -18 psi. at tick over once working temp is achieved

if you get no pressure at the start, or zero psi with a cold engine, turn it off.

right, got it, i will report back once i've done it.

cheers for being patient

probably daft questions, when you say pressure at cold, do you mean stood with the engine off or just started? if i get the 50psi (3.5bar) at cold, do i proceed further to when the engine is hot? what would i need when hot?

switch, noted. DOH![/quote]

Pressure at cold involves connecting up the pressure gauge and then starting the engine. This means that the internals and oil are cold, obviously, this will change as things begin to warm up.

Hello,

A CT engine gives oil pressure straight away...

Always fill the oil filter prior to fitting.

Connect the test gauge in place of the oil pressure switch,,

Be careful.. it is a taper thread and only needs to be hand tight,,

Here is the new switch you will need.. and get the wiring clean and shiney...

http://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/trans ... bar-n37097" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you want to be 'super precautious'.. take the spark plugs out and disconnect the feed to the coil.. that way you can spin the motor easily on the starter without doing much harm..

The oil pressure will hopefully read 2 bars...30 psi in old money just by cranking over... if you can only get 0.8 bar.. then you have a worn engine

While you have the plugs out... you could also (new can of worms) do a compression check..

The last part... initial start up.. on this video may help..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la9UI9F ... gNrGfa9EAg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope this helps..

Cordialement,

monkeyboysee wrote:Update

next, i dropped the oil out, removed and drained the filter, got a good 3.5 litres out so pretty empty. refilled the filter, filled back up, light still on. after a bit of warming up the light went off. took it for a spin and started getting a flicker, very intermittent.

any thoughts?

CT engine only holds 3ltrs of oil with a oil filter change, 2.5ltr without a filter change. If your over filling with oil you may be aerating the oil.

right, update, and more confusion!

put the kit on in place of the oil sensor, started up, no movemnet whatsoever on the gauge, even with revving the engine. unclipped the gauge to reseat it, had oil coming out of the flex tube so obviously some pressure? put the gauge back on, nothing, needle on the stopper.

assumed that the gauge was dicky and i had possibly cleared an airlock? so i put the senosr back in, wired up, no light at all. sounded ok so i took it for a spin, no light. just getting back home started flickering thenm on / off at no regular intervals.

aaaggghhh!

How old is this engine? The original?

CovKid wrote:How old is this engine? The original?

it was a vege replacement at about 30k from memory, don't have the paperwork with me at the mo. plenty of miles on it though, but it drives as well as it has done, apart from the badly blowing exhaust it drives and sounds fine, just as "normal".