Club 80-90 Forums

Compression test is easy peasy
dont waste your money on a garage, for the same money or probably less you can buy the guage and diy
then you have the guage for future tests

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... r&_sacat=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did my compression test. In bars I got:

1: 12 bar
2: 12 bar
3: 10 bar (spark plug here had oily threads)
4: 11 bar.

I guess this means I have a problem with piston 3? It is still in the green range, so not enough to cause the cutting out?

What possible engine repairs might I need? Obviously I couldn't do them myself. Is it likely to be expensive?

Thanks.

Was that hot or cold?
Id say its ok, i wouldnt take the engine appart for that
Might be worth starting a new post in the intermittant cutting out issue and keep this one for the pipes

itchyfeet wrote:Was that hot or cold?
Id say its ok, i wouldnt take the engine appart for that
Might be worth starting a new post in the intermittant cutting out issue and keep this one for the pipes

That was cold. The first time I did it I didn't read the instructions, did it wrong and didnt get any reading. Then read the instructions but didn't warm the engine. I have a problem doing a job properly. Will start a new thread with the sorry story of my attempt so far to diagnose the cutting out.

Got the pulley off then the water pump. Along with 2 coolant pipes attached to it.



Going to re-use the large pipe that attaches to lhs of pump if I can get it off. Hex sockets are rounding.

Irwin tools do a socket that grips the outside of the cap head screw

itchyfeet wrote:Irwin tools do a socket that grips the outside of the cap head screw

Thanks. Had a look and theyre quite expensive. Bought a cheap easy out set. When they dont work will probably have to buy the Irwin set anyway.

Have seen vids of people using torx bits but don't have one the right size. Also heard someone say you can grind flat edges on them. Just got 1 bolt left in. That pipe costs about £60, so would be cost effective to buy the Irwin set if I can't get it out any other way.

cut the head off with a hack saw and the pipe came off. the bolt is still in the old pump.

Is this the correct coolant temp sensor?



Also, there was a rod & bearing floating about under the pulley. Any idea where it might be from?

oil seal removed. (kept the funny looking temp switch, which itchy informed me, is the oil pressure switch )



the old one. why do youtube videos make things look so easy?



new oil seal, water pump & pipes installed. changing rooms treatment for the water pulley



Thanks to those who have offered help.

When I refilled the system and tried to bleed it, water (no antifreeze yet) ended up p***ing out of valve at the top of the closed expansion tank. Is there any way this is anything other than very bad?

I know the timing was out from when I removed the distributor. Will get it set up correctly and try again.

Always mark the dizzie before removal... you're starting to build up a lot of unknowns.
Who suggested cutting out was in any way connected to low compression (which you don't have or ignition timing?

I was in a hurry to start the dizzy job so marked the mounting bracket instead of the distributor, so that was useless. My error. A local mechanic has set the timing by ear (for free) and is coming back tomorrow to do it with a strobe. I don't remember where I read that I should start by doing a compression test but I can't see that it hurts to check. On the cutting out thread, someone suggested I start by sorting out the known problem of my advance not working. That is now fixed and the vac is working. But in doing the job I messed up the timing.

So I still have 2 problems:

1) The cutting out still happens when coming off revs. I checked this while stationary. It will idle fine and not cut out. But if I press the accelerator and gently come off it, the engine cuts out as the revs drop. I am planning to have the carb rebuild kit fitted as the next step for this in case it is sucking in air anywhere.

2) Overheating. I rev the engine to bleed the system and the temperature just rises past 2/3 and the light comes on. I had a dodgy cap that I could suck through (genuine vw). I replaced it. Tried again, overheats again. The radiator fan did not come on. I had the bleed screw on the radiator open. Water came out but the radiator itself did not feel hot. Presumably it should feel warm from the outside if the water inside is getting hot? Does this suggest the thermostat is not opening up?

E D I T: I replaced the header tank too. It had a load of goo in the bottom. I also cleaned the level sensor. I suppose this goo will be elsewhere, probably in the radiator.

If the engine is getting hot the first thing I would check is the thermostat
..and whether it works!
That rod and ball is from the fuel pump.
Engine stall (hot) points to an air leak.
Choke pull down is the usual suspect.

Thanks Kev. Will proceed as advised.