Club 80-90 Forums

Eloise wrote:Hello, can anyone please explain the mechanical process of setting the choke by pressing the accelerator? My choke does not close either and I can see no mechanical means of it closing, I would have expected a cam action on a spring of some sorts.

Thanks

this may help explain

http://onemanspanner.wordpress.com/2011 ... w-vanagon/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Verne

The choke is opened and closed by temperature.
A bi metal strip opens the flap and closes it.
It takes 6 to 8 mins to open fully.
When ambient temperatures are high it does not close fully.
When you depress the acc. pedal once this sets the fast idle speed for cold starting, it also allows the choke to find it's new position (temp dependant) by a clever spring action.

Hi Kev, I have had another look tonight. I can nearly close the choke flap by rotating the spring housing clockwise fully. This seems too far and takes all the adjustment out. I have had the spring housing off and made sure the spring is located on the tang. It still won't set or fast idle? Five mins of warming up by toe jiggling and it will then idle fine?

Any ideas?

Cheers neil

If you search my posts for fast idle or choke mechanism thete are loads of pictures and explanametions from both me and itchyfeet
here is the mechanism



the fast idle and choke flap are two seperate entities but work from the same spindle.
depessing the acc. flips the fast idle arm onto the the highest step



if the bimetal sping houing is out of whack this won't happen.
It should just rest on the top step and when the acc is touched the cam will snap to it's temp controlled position

kevtherev wrote:

gimme a break I'm trying to do this all on a phone.

Cheers Kev, I will search. Am I right in thinking that the spring in the choke housing is supposed to hold the spindle on the fast cam? Obviously when cold. When I press the pedal, the spindle just spins back and the flap does not close? I think the bi metallic strip is damaged if so, the previous owner overheated the engine to the point of melting components and this could be one of them.

Going to Leeds in a bit so might look for a spare housing or carb.

Cheers Neil.

Is the choke flap free to move by hand?

Yes, the flap is free to move. I can push it down but it is under spring tension that returns it open

Cheers

Ok so the plastic joiner isnt broken
take the bimetalic spring housing off, its the one with the water pipes attached, three screws
then use your fingers to simulate the spring while you press the accele rator to see if the choke sets

there is minor adjustment of the bimetallic spring by rotating the assembly on the slots butthere is a major adjustment by releasing the grub screw for tye main spindle, it may just be way out of adjustment

to see if the bimetallic spring is working stick it in a fridge, freezer or oven and mark movement, pic below shows roughly where it should be at zero

thanks Itchy, sounds like we both have same/similar issue, plan on taking another look at mine tomorrow

Grub screw for major adjustment, release and main spindle can then be adjusted, can be siezed

Thanks mr feet, I will carry out some more checks on the spring. I am quite sure it's something mechanical or adjustment wise that's wrong.

Cheers

Fingers crossed, my choke is now working, I'll try again tomorrow after work

From what I could see, the spring wasn't even located and the housing is now in a completely different position

On another note, I bought a breather pipe, but the tower has been turned by 180 degrees and just had a pipe going to the rear of the engine bay. I've undone the 4 nuts that hold the tower in place so that I can re-position it, but it doesn't seem to want to lift off. Is it plastic, as it feels it may crack if I try to force it

Any advice for turning the tower would be much appreciated

TIA