Club 80-90 Forums

I can't honestly remember how much we paid but it wasn't that much I'm sure. I take it you have shopped around? eBay?

From memory I think we tried to glue it whilst we were waiting for the tank to arrive and it lasted a few days but I doubt it's going to last very long

Cheers,
Andy

Yep, don't bother trying to repair it. As said, it won't last, if it works at all. Tanks get brittle with all the hot/cold they endure - regardless of manufacturer.

I used a fibreglass kit to repair mine once. Lasted about 300 miles - just enough time to get us back from our hols.

Cheers guys, I'll have a shop around to try and nab a cheaper one somewhere. For the moment I'm just checking the water level regularly on long journeys to make sure not too much escapes, seems to only need a top up after a long slog up the M5. Will get round to it once more pressing things are sorted and funds allow

I got a diesel tank going spare.

Funny coincidence: I just fixed my header tank "O" ring seal which frightened me when in Dorset this weekend. Crafty little leak though as it passes off as a cylinder head leak at first sight due to the tortuous route down wires and pipes from a shallow behind the sensor.

Someone had previously used Red Hermetite in addition the the "O" ring and it seems finally to worked its way round the threads to the "O" ring. I cleaned it up and refitted it dry and it leaked so I replaced the Hermetite with Silicon sealant and am expecting it to last indefinitely. I think the plastic threaded body touches down before the "O" ring seals properly but there is no spacer/washer bodge possible and a thicker "O" ring not standard for that diameter.

If I understand the design intent there will be no pressure in the pipe between the two tanks but it does need to be airtight in order to support the partial vacuum as the expanded overflow coolant cools and draws coolant back into the header.
CS

Hi guys

Just wanted to ask what's probably a stupid question - how do you actually remove the coolant level sender?

There's a little puddle around the sender and in the electrical connection above. I've checked on here extensively but don't think anyone else struggled with actually getting the sender out

Haynes manual refers to it screwing in, but Brickwerks (VW) replacement seems to push in. It's position makes it tricky to get a hold of, and without knowing whether im pulling or screwing (?!) I dont want to start wrenching it with pliars...

I'm hoping to get a good look at which type of sender I've got before ordering replacement, plus I'll need to know this to replace anyway!

Thanks in advance
2.1 DJ Petrol

This one - screw in and out, normal left to unscrew. https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/coolant-le ... ip-on.html

My sensor leaked up through the prongs and connections also!

Its a screw thread, the hexagon shape is a clue.

Thanks guys