Club 80-90 Forums

ermie571 wrote:
Could also be grot in the carb....

Had very similar symptoms last year, starts fine but as soon as it warms up it stalled, after a quick blow in the float chamber and down the jets it ran ok, stripped the top of the carb off and found crystalization in the float chamber, its ran ok since. Personally I would look down all avenues prior to altering the carb fuel mix without evidence that it was tampered with during the MOT.

Tried the new coil, no difference, so it must be carb problems, problem is being a numpty of limited experience and tools, I've come to the end of my resources, how do I squirt an air line into the carbs, when I don't have an air line

kevtherev wrote:

captaincalamity wrote:Where is the air bypass?

There are a lot of names for it, air bypass, anti dieseling, idle cut off.

You say you checked it and it clicked.. did you remove it to see if it's blocked?

Do this first.
Pinging around the engine bay lookingfor problems is no use.
you have to be methodical

itchyfeet wrote:mis connected the by pass cut off to the carb/choke heater heater circuit

then ensure this is correctly connected

NicBeeee wrote:

ermie571 wrote:
Could also be grot in the carb....

Had very similar symptoms last year, starts fine but as soon as it warms up it stalled, after a quick blow in the float chamber and down the jets it ran ok, stripped the top of the carb off and found crystalization in the float chamber, its ran ok since. Personally I would look down all avenues prior to altering the carb fuel mix without evidence that it was tampered with during the MOT.

then do this..
clean it properly

But get a gasket for the carb as when you take the top off to clean it the gasket will nearly always get damaged (unless you have a new one ready to use, in which case it will likely come off fine !! = Murphy's law and all that !! )

captaincalamity wrote: how do I squirt an air line into the carbs, when I don't have an air line

neither of I but I do have a road bike tyre inner tube 120psi with a presta valve on, loosen the valve, place a vacuum tube over it and wobble the end and hey presta, not ideal I know and you will probably have to pump it up a couple of times but if your stuck in the mire and happen to be carrying bikes

After months of trouble free driving, ours has started to do this as well. FFS.

kevtherev wrote: You say you checked it and it clicked.. did you remove it to see if it's blocked?

Kev? How do you remove this solenoid? (Mines clicking but want to see if it's blocked as per your rec)

After reading this post https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7876012 I had a go at the jets and did a little more cleaning in the carbs. I also spritzed the choke mechanism as it felt a bit stiff. Started up without the carb top off and checked everything looked OK inside while revving (like I'd know...). Anyhoo, stayed in at the high idle as always, and when revved down to the standard idle, I fiddled with the adjuster until the engine was up to temp, and the revs were just above 1000rpm (what is the standard idle speed).

I'm not at all confident the settings are optimal, but I took him out for a run and no issues appeared (other than the nuisance oil pressure buzzer of doom half way around the journey). So I might take it into the local garage and get them to tune it properly. Hopefully there's no diagnosis for them to do (diagnosis = £££££, standard stuff = £).

ScienceBoy wrote:...and the revs were just above 1000rpm (what is the standard idle speed)...

900rpm.

Guess my mpg will suck for a while...

ScienceBoy wrote:Guess my mpg will suck for a while...

I get about 20mpg... it's always going to suck.

A garage should be able to adjust your mixture and timing on a gas analyser and drop your idle speed easily enough.

Righto an update...

Manged to get the VW Aircooled workshop to check it over again....they cleaned out all the jets, new inline filter and made sure the top of the carb was cleaned through, it ran all the way from Eastbourne to Hertfordshire like a dream, then back home until we were about 10 miles from home and it happens again...cuts out, fires up, but will only tick over on revs...so I managed to keep the revs going and using the handbreak to slow...went up and down a few steep hills and the problem seemed to clear, got home and it ticked over fine.

Now I am beginning think when this problem happens, it seems to clear once its been ramped up onto and off the recovery truck and also if you go up and down steep hills, maybe this is just an odd coincidence.

That shreeks of a blockage in the tank?

just a thought...a magnet on the bottom of the tank to keep any rusty crud at the bottom and not against the fuel outlet??

Em
xx