Club 80-90 Forums

Ralph, whilst you are "in there", after the job is done, could you fire up the motor then pull off the low level sensor and tell "us" if the needle moves over to the right (therefore out of the way of the LED). As you likely know, you have to give it a good few seconds, up to a minute, before the warning system "kicks in". Then, after you re-plug the sensor plug back, you have to turn the ignition off and on again to re-set it. (bet you knew that, I wrote it for future readers).

Ta. Hakuna is coming over from Leicester to watch me and take the pee I think. Thats what mates are for.

The sensor was always fine John but yes I'll do that - good idea.

Yes, I am just curious to see if yours sends the needle over to the right when disconnected. Seems that some do and some don't.

I think I may have a steep climb with this job. What is abundantly clear is that one of the bolts that holds thermostat housing to pump is seized solid. Even with a hex socket, the head said "no way, and to make my point, I'm going to round on you!". That will have to wait I suppose and see if I can't grind off head and fit a new bolt (don't have one as yet) once pump and thermostat housing are off as one. Those little cherub allen bolts on lower pipe don't appear to be a size I have at all unless previous owner chewed them.

ghost123uk wrote:Ralph, whilst you are "in there", after the job is done, could you fire up the motor then pull off the low level sensor and tell "us" if the needle moves over to the right (therefore out of the way of the LED). As you likely know, you have to give it a good few seconds, up to a minute, before the warning system "kicks in". Then, after you re-plug the sensor plug back, you have to turn the ignition off and on again to re-set it. (bet you knew that, I wrote it for future readers).

FYI - mine doesn't move the needle - light flashes, needle stays where it was; the argument being that the needle still shows your coolant temp while the flashing light shows a low coolant level.
(Either way I've now moved by low coolant warning to a spare LED so that there is now no confusion as to what is going on ...!)

Whats really needed is either a windscreen that immediately goes black (like an auro darkening welding mask), forcing you to stop immediately when the temperature gets ridiculously high, or the gentler version, a buzzer under the drivers seat (although some might actually enjoy it).

Try warming the bolt up with a little heat if you have it then spray some wd in there, heat normally suck the wd in.

I was ahead of you. Unfortunately by the time Neil left, the shops were shut and for some reason they shut an hour earlier around here but I'm heading down to Wickes in the morning to grab a blow torch. Another thing that might (and I say might) work is Halfords Shock & Unlock. I'm not a fan of penetrating fluids as such, mostly because I cannot see what possible difference it makes to a tight and effectively sealed nut or bolt but the Halfords stuff apparently works by freezing a rusty bolt to allow fluid to penetrate. However, I think steel and aluminium corrosion is different and heat is likely to produce better results.

Could try both I suppose. Its a grim sight at the moment,

hi covkid hope all goes well tomorrow mate fingers crossed cheers simon

Ralph, let me know if you need anything - tools, tea making facilities, someone to bug you......

CovKid wrote:I was ahead of you. Unfortunately by the time Neil left, the shops were shut and for some reason they shut an hour earlier around here but I'm heading down to Wickes in the morning to grab a blow torch. Another thing that might (and I say might) work is Halfords Shock & Unlock. I'm not a fan of penetrating fluids as such, mostly because I cannot see what possible difference it makes to a tight and effectively sealed nut or bolt but the Halfords stuff apparently works by freezing a rusty bolt to allow fluid to penetrate. However, I think steel and aluminium corrosion is different and heat is likely to produce better results.

Could try both I suppose. Its a grim sight at the moment,

I have used heat then shocking it all with electronic component freezer spray several times with reasonable results, presumably the Halfrauds stuff is the same but at a higher price. Heat until it glows red first if you can get it that hot.

And if all else fails and the head is butchered try a chisel and hammer if you can get in there and strike the edge of the head until it moves.
I have had good results if all else fails.

Blow torch appears to be my first hurdle. Tough going on foot. Did miles today already going to places that 'claimed' they were open on their websites and were NOT when I got there. Seems that less and less places actually sell them and those that do want £20+, without the gas, and followed by bad reviews on their own website. Bah humbug. Curse them and their multitude of re-badged chinese wares. May their bags of potting compost turn to stone overnight. Be simpler to just go to Maplins I reckon which is way closer. Wilco (who you'd think WOULD do them) don't sell them.

Can see me getting reprimanded for not getting into work Monday as I must get this resolved. Could get a heatgun almost anywhere but I don't think they're as hot as a blow torch.

Jakemate - chisel and hammer is on my 'bugger it' list of techniques.

CovKid wrote:Jakemate - chisel and hammer is on my 'bugger it' list of techniques.

If you have enough room use a hacksaw/junior hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the bolt and then use a flat ended screwdriver on it. I cracked many a subborn bugger using that technique over the years. Sometimes even required a pair of grips on the screwdriver for maximum torque.
Granted it's rough as a bear's ar$e but can and often does work.