Club 80-90 Forums

flyinghitop wrote:I dunno about but even in London £65 an hour isn't a bad wage and another garage has sad that they can do it. The bleeding is pretty straightforward and I do it every time there is a change to the levels. I had read somewhere that the later models were self bleeding and I wondered whether that was the case

flyinghitop wrote: I had read somewhere that the later models were self bleeding and I wondered whether that was the case

ghost123uk wrote:p.s = From another (recent post of mine) =

ghost123uk wrote: It is surprising how quickly one can become at bleeding after doing it a few times. One trick I used, esp as the engine was already hot, was to re-fill, fit the dalek, start motor, drive a bit or have a fag, then carefully slacken slightly the bleed bolt on the rad. The pressure that should have built up (hot engine) allows any air to be forceably ejected. When water starts coming out, re-tighten, but repeat the procedure a couple of times between drain and re-fills. This avoids all that "rev to 3,000 rpm, then loosen" business (which takes 2 folk).

Now, don't do what I did once. Whilst doing the above "hot, pressurised" bleeding, I undid the bleed screw on the rad too far, came out and a powerful fountain of very hot water shot out, hit the bodywork and sprayed all over me. Luckily I was unhurt. Just crack the bolt, don't unscrew it too far !

flyinghitop wrote:Interesting. Cut you pop a link to that thread so I can have a butchers ?

itchyfeet wrote:

flyinghitop wrote:Interesting. Cut you pop a link to that thread so I can have a butchers ?

i already did on the last page

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/bleed ... 29710.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

this also in the wiki but id go with baxters guide

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Co ... ing_system" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;